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Routes in Rock Springs Buttress

"Bacon Strip" T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Air Raid T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Albatross Roof T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Baby Cham Brings The Heat ! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Big Man on Campus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Big Wally T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blimpie T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bolt it G T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Box Car Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Box Car Boulder V6-7 7A+
Chant Down the Wicked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clowns and Jokers T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Coombs Crossover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crucify the Dread S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Direct Start to Exum Arete S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Do It For Doug S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exum Arete T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giver' for Givens T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Go, For Gary ! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Going Ghandi S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gothic Serpent T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grand Central S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gray Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hidden Gold T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hobo Rat Race S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ice Climb, The T WI5-6 M7
Ire' Tower T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Knockin' on the Sky T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Live to Ski S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Monkey Flower S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mule Skinner S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Munger Crack and Friends Pitch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Logo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old Mountaineer's Root T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Orange Member S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Other Ice Climb, The T WI4 M5
Piton Country T M5+
Pork Slab S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ptarmigan Tower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rainbow Country S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rasberry Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Red Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M7
Red, Gold and Green S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sky Lounge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sole Super Power S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Super Trad T M6+ R
This climb from the Tram (is recommended for climbers with expert abilities only.) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trash Culture S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triple Roofs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waste Products S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Whistle Pigs S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wish You Were Here S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Y - Not Wall (Amada's Route) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zion Stormtrooper S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
d S 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Elevation: 9,000 ft
GPS: 43.588, -110.87 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Jun 17, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Rock Springs Buttress comes highly recommended. It is a unique and cool climbing experience! The rock quality is generally good (for alpine rock) and the climbs include sport, traditional, and a blend of both. There are a variety of routes and variations, and fixed anchors are plentiful, so linkups are possible.

The rock is granite, though highly fractured and weathered - and occasionally loose. The holds alternate between positive and slick, and the smooth crystalline nature of the rock sometimes make the feet tenuous. Routes may seem a little sandbagged, probably because of the lack of chalk and difficulty in reading the quality of holds from below.

Visitors to this crag are encouraged to get Greg Collins' latest edition of Lander Rock - it includes topos of Rock Springs Buttress. Be sure to get the latest version, as the older version didn't have Rock Springs in it.

Helmets and a 70m rope are strongly recommended.

Watch out for the marmots! One chewed through my rock shoe while it was sitting 20 feet from me. Others attempted to chew through a nearby rope, and one stole a pair of $160 sunglasses. Seriously - keep everything within arms reach and be prepared to defend your equipment!

The crag is west facing and gets morning shade and afternoon sun, and mornings can be chilly so be sure to bring something warm with you.

Getting There

Drive to Jackson Hole Ski Area and park in the upper lot (behind Teton Mountain Lodge).

Hike up the paved McCollister Road towards the Union Pass lift. Eventually the road dead ends, and a small trail takes off to the left. Take this trail until it hits a service road. Turn left on the service road. Eventually the service road turns into a steep trail that takes you up to the buttress.

You can also mountain bike the first portion, which greatly speeds the return to your car. Stash your bike when the double-track service road turns into a single track.

The trail is steep, but it is a beautiful alpine valley and that helps take your mind off the effort. Expect a 1.5-2 hour approach.

56 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Rock Springs Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route)
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Triple Roofs
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey Flower
Sport, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exum Arete
Trad, Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blimpie
Trad, Sport, Alpine
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Go, For Gary !
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Do It For Doug
Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Direct Start to Exum Arete
Sport, Alpine
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Box Car Arete
Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Whistle Pigs
Sport, Alpine
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Clowns and Jokers
Trad, Sport, Alpine 5 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gray Wall
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rasberry Arete
Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Knockin' on the Sky
Trad, Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grand Central
Sport, Alpine 5 pitches
Tolle Route (aka Guide's Ro… 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Triple Roofs 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Monkey Flower 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, Alpine
Exum Arete 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
Blimpie 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport, Alpine
Go, For Gary ! 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Do It For Doug 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
Direct Start to Exum Arete 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, Alpine
Box Car Arete 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
Whistle Pigs 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, Alpine
Clowns and Jokers 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport, Alpine 5 pitches
Gray Wall 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Rasberry Arete 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
Knockin' on the Sky 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
Grand Central 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, Alpine 5 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Rock Springs Buttress »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Route list needs to be: from left to right Sep 10, 2017
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Be aware that many of the new routes aren't listed in the topo above. Sep 24, 2012
Free info on this crag can be found here:

tetonclimbing.com/pdf/RockS… Jun 19, 2012
Rock Springs is meta-gabbro, not granite but similar texture. Its cool looking rock. May 5, 2012
steve richert
Taunton MA
steve richert   Taunton MA
is it possible to bivvy in ones car on this service road? May 18, 2011
hey there.. big fan of RSB. The climbing is world class yet a world of its own. Thanks to the people for there loving efforts to create this much needed crag. Once accustomed to the climbing the grading will seem reasonable, however the local guides are famed for understating difficulty. Several routes have been up-graded or given the +. I recommend the clowns route. Located on the wall to the left of xm arete. Well protected sport at the 5.11 grade. Blimpie is also very fine, good pro, steep movement, and finally a bolted finish, soo good. Thanks Coombs. There will be more to come. Gray wall? 5.14 at the Buttress? Why not! Mar 13, 2007

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