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Areas in Rock Springs Buttress

(a) West Sector 7 / 14 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21 / 21
(b) Central Sector 19 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 30 / 30
(c) East Sector 7 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 2 / 14 / 14
Elevation: 9,000 ft
GPS: 43.588, -110.87 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 56,522 total · 374/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Jun 17, 2006 with updates from Gee Dubble and 1 other
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg
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Description

Rock Springs Buttress comes highly recommended. It is a unique and cool climbing experience! The rock quality is generally good (for alpine rock) and the climbs include sport, traditional, and a blend of both. There are a variety of routes and variations, and fixed anchors are plentiful, so linkups are possible.

The rock is granite, though highly fractured and weathered - and occasionally loose. The holds alternate between positive and slick, and the smooth crystalline nature of the rock sometimes make the feet tenuous. Routes may seem a little sandbagged, probably because of the lack of chalk and difficulty in reading the quality of holds from below.

Visitors to this crag are encouraged to get Greg Collins' latest edition of Lander Rock - it includes topos of Rock Springs Buttress. Be sure to get the latest version, as the older version didn't have Rock Springs in it.

Helmets and a 70m rope are strongly recommended.

Watch out for the marmots! One chewed through my rock shoe while it was sitting 20 feet from me. Others attempted to chew through a nearby rope, and one stole a pair of $160 sunglasses. Seriously - keep everything within arms reach and be prepared to defend your equipment!

The crag is west facing and gets morning shade and afternoon sun, and mornings can be chilly so be sure to bring something warm with you.

Getting There

Drive to Jackson Hole Ski Area and park in the upper lot (behind Teton Mountain Lodge).

Hike up the paved McCollister Road towards the Union Pass lift. Eventually the road dead ends, and a small trail takes off to the left. Take this trail until it hits a service road. Turn left on the service road. Eventually the service road turns into a steep trail that takes you up to the buttress.

You can also mountain bike the first portion, which greatly speeds the return to your car. Stash your bike when the double-track service road turns into a single track.

The trail is steep, but it is a beautiful alpine valley and that helps take your mind off the effort. Expect a 1.5-2 hour approach.

65 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Rock Springs Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI5-6 M7
 3
The Ice Climb
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 35
Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route)
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
School Route
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 16
Triple Roofs
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 25
Monkey Flower
Sport, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 28
Exum Arete
Trad, Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 31
Do It For Doug
Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Direct Start to Exum Arete
Sport, Alpine
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
Box Car Arete
Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Whistle Pigs
Sport, Alpine
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
Clowns and Jokers
Trad, Sport, Alpine 5 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Gray Wall
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Knockin' on the Sky
Trad, Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 4
Rasberry Arete
Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
Grand Central
Sport, Alpine 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Ice Climb (c) E Sector
 3
WI5-6 M7 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 2 pitches
Tolle Route (aka Guide's Ro… (a) W Sector
 35
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
School Route (b) Central Sector
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Triple Roofs (a) W Sector
 16
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Monkey Flower (a) W Sector
 25
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, Alpine
Exum Arete (b) Central Sector
 28
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
Do It For Doug (b) Central Sector
 31
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
Direct Start to Exum Arete (b) Central Sector
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, Alpine
Box Car Arete (a) W Sector
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
Whistle Pigs (c) E Sector
 7
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, Alpine
Clowns and Jokers (b) Central Sector
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport, Alpine 5 pitches
Gray Wall (b) Central Sector
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Knockin' on the Sky (c) E Sector
 3
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
Rasberry Arete (c) E Sector
 4
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
Grand Central (b) Central Sector
 3
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, Alpine 5 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Rock Springs Buttress »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
hey there.. big fan of RSB. The climbing is world class yet a world of its own. Thanks to the people for there loving efforts to create this much needed crag. Once accustomed to the climbing the grading will seem reasonable, however the local guides are famed for understating difficulty. Several routes have been up-graded or given the +. I recommend the clowns route. Located on the wall to the left of xm arete. Well protected sport at the 5.11 grade. Blimpie is also very fine, good pro, steep movement, and finally a bolted finish, soo good. Thanks Coombs. There will be more to come. Gray wall? 5.14 at the Buttress? Why not! Mar 13, 2007
steve richert
Taunton MA
steve richert   Taunton MA
is it possible to bivvy in ones car on this service road? May 18, 2011
Rock Springs is meta-gabbro, not granite but similar texture. Its cool looking rock. May 5, 2012
Free info on this crag can be found here:

tetonclimbing.com/pdf/RockS… Jun 19, 2012
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Be aware that many of the new routes aren't listed in the topo above. Sep 24, 2012

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