Elevation: 9,000 ft
GPS: 43.588, -110.87 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 73,319 total · 452/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Jun 17, 2006 with improvements by Gee Dubble and 2 others
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

Description

Rock Springs Buttress comes highly recommended. It is a unique and cool climbing experience! The rock quality is generally good (for alpine rock) and the climbs include sport, traditional, and a blend of both. There are a variety of routes and variations, and fixed anchors are plentiful, so linkups are possible.

The rock is granite, though highly fractured and weathered - and occasionally loose. The holds alternate between positive and slick, and the smooth crystalline nature of the rock sometimes make the feet tenuous. Routes may seem a little sandbagged, probably because of the lack of chalk and difficulty in reading the quality of holds from below.

Visitors to this crag are encouraged to get Greg Collins' latest edition of Lander Rock - it includes topos of Rock Springs Buttress. Be sure to get the latest version, as the older version didn't have Rock Springs in it.

Helmets and a 70m rope are strongly recommended.

Watch out for the marmots! One chewed through my rock shoe while it was sitting 20 feet from me. Others attempted to chew through a nearby rope, and one stole a pair of $160 sunglasses. Seriously - keep everything within arms reach and be prepared to defend your equipment!

The crag is west facing and gets morning shade and afternoon sun, and mornings can be chilly so be sure to bring something warm with you.

Getting There

Drive to Jackson Hole Ski Area and park in the upper lot (behind Teton Mountain Lodge).

Hike up the paved McCollister Road towards the Union Pass lift. Eventually the road dead ends, and a small trail takes off to the left. Take this trail until it hits a service road. Turn left on the service road. Eventually the service road turns into a steep trail that takes you up to the buttress.

You can also mountain bike the first portion, which greatly speeds the return to your car. Stash your bike when the doubletrack service road turns into a singletrack.

The trail is steep, but it is a beautiful alpine valley and that helps take your mind off the effort. Expect a 1.5-3 hour approach.

You can also descend from the top of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort tram (note that an advanced purchased tram ticket will costs $38 as of August 2019). Follow the Rock Springs Loop trail down the ridge line that looks toward Cody Peak. The trail will shortly come to a junction with a road leading left. Take the left and follow this trail down to another junction and make a right. Follow this trail down to what would be the Rendezvous ski trail in Winter. This ridge is the top of Rock Springs Buttress to your right as well as several steep ski shots to a skier's left. Look for the climber's trail on the right maked with cairns, which descends into the to the base area of the buttress. Note that the last tram leaves at 5:00.

67 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Rock Springs Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI5-6 M7
 3
The Ice Climb
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 44
Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route)
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 17
Triple Roofs
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 27
Monkey Flower
Sport, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 33
Exum Arete
Trad, Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 34
Do It For Doug
Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 11
Direct Start to Exum Arete
Sport, Alpine
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 10
Box Car Arete
Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Whistle Pigs
Sport, Alpine
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
Clowns and Jokers
Trad, Sport, Alpine 5 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
Naranja Aplastada
Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Gray Wall
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Knockin' on the Sky
Trad, Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 4
Rasberry Arete
Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
Grand Central
Sport, Alpine 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Ice Climb (c) E Sector
 3
WI5-6 M7 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 2 pitches
Tolle Route (aka Guide's Ro… (a) W Sector
 44
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Triple Roofs (a) W Sector
 17
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Monkey Flower (a) W Sector
 27
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, Alpine
Exum Arete (b) Central Sector
 33
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
Do It For Doug (b) Central Sector
 34
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
Direct Start to Exum Arete (b) Central Sector
 11
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, Alpine
Box Car Arete (a) W Sector
 10
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
Whistle Pigs (c) E Sector
 7
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, Alpine
Clowns and Jokers (b) Central Sector
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport, Alpine 5 pitches
Naranja Aplastada (a) W Sector
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
Gray Wall (b) Central Sector
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Knockin' on the Sky (c) E Sector
 3
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
Rasberry Arete (c) E Sector
 4
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
Grand Central (b) Central Sector
 3
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, Alpine 5 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Rock Springs Buttress »

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