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Routes in (b) Central Sector

Air Raid T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Baby Cham Brings The Heat ! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Big Man on Campus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Big Wally T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bolt it G T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Chant Down the Wicked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clowns and Jokers T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crucify the Dread S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Desbandere T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Direct Start to Exum Arete S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Do It For Doug S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Exum Arete T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giver' for Givens T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Go, For Gary ! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gothic Serpent T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grand Central S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gray Wall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hidden Gold T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Munger Crack and Friends Pitch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Mountaineer's Root T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Piton Country T M5+
Ptarmigan Tower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rainbow Country S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Red Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M7
Red, Gold and Green S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
School Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sky Lounge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Super Trad T M6+ R
This climb from the Tram (is recommended for climbers with expert abilities only.) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Wish You Were Here S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 110 ft, Grade II
FA: Mike Abbey, Greg Collins
Page Views: 173 total · 4/month
Shared By: Michael Abbey on Sep 18, 2014
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Description

A classic and intimidating mixed climb on a beautiful face. The FA (listed in the Guide book)was named Bolt it for Doug (11c), and was done without bolts by starting up a crack slightly left of the anchor. The much needed bolts were put in by G. and kept to a minimum to preserve the routes adventurous quality.

Location

Climb the first two pitches of Do it for Doug to a big belay ledge with anchors. Climb straight up from anchors (just left of Do it for Doug)through first crux with 3 bolts. From a small ledge, clip another bolt and climb up left (trad) into a shallow corner (second crux). Clip another bolt after crux, then continue up the middle of the face on a mix of pro and bolts.

Protection

A single set of cams (camalots .5-3) and a lot of quick draws are needed. A 70M rope will get you back to the belay ledge. Otherwise a second rappel from an intermediate anchor (top of P3 of Do it for Doug) is needed.

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