A classic and intimidating mixed climb on a beautiful face. The FA (listed in the Guide book)was named Bolt it for Doug (11c), and was done without bolts by starting up a crack slightly left of the anchor. The much needed bolts were put in by G. and kept to a minimum to preserve the routes adventurous quality.
Climb the first two pitches of Do it for Doug to a big belay ledge with anchors. Climb straight up from anchors (just left of Do it for Doug)through first crux with 3 bolts. From a small ledge, clip another bolt and climb up left (trad) into a shallow corner (second crux). Clip another bolt after crux, then continue up the middle of the face on a mix of pro and bolts.
A single set of cams (camalots .5-3) and a lot of quick draws are needed. A 70M rope will get you back to the belay ledge. Otherwise a second rappel from an intermediate anchor (top of P3 of Do it for Doug) is needed.