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Routes in Rock Springs Buttress

"Bacon Strip" T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Air Raid T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Albatross Roof T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Baby Cham Brings The Heat ! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Big Man on Campus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Big Wally T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blimpie T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bolt it G T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Box Car Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Box Car Boulder V6-7 7A+
Chant Down the Wicked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clowns and Jokers T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Coombs Crossover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crucify the Dread S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Direct Start to Exum Arete S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Do It For Doug S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exum Arete T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giver' for Givens T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Go, For Gary ! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Going Ghandi S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gothic Serpent T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grand Central S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gray Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hidden Gold T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hobo Rat Race S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ice Climb, The T WI5-6 M7
Ire' Tower T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Knockin' on the Sky T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Live to Ski S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Monkey Flower S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mule Skinner S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Munger Crack and Friends Pitch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Logo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old Mountaineer's Root T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Orange Member S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Other Ice Climb, The T WI4 M5
Piton Country T M5+
Pork Slab S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ptarmigan Tower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rainbow Country S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rasberry Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Red Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M7
Red, Gold and Green S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sky Lounge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sole Super Power S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Super Trad T M6+ R
This climb from the Tram (is recommended for climbers with expert abilities only.) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trash Culture S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triple Roofs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waste Products S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Whistle Pigs S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wish You Were Here S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Y - Not Wall (Amada's Route) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zion Stormtrooper S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
d S 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Type: Trad, Sport, Alpine, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tom Hargis, Bill Dyer
Page Views: 6,964 total, 50/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Jun 17, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

This route is reason enough to visit Rock Springs Buttress. The Exum Arete takes an improbable line up a stunning arete and does so a modest grade. The climbing is fun, rock quality superb, belays fixed, and the protection plentiful.

Pitch 1 (5.7) - A relatively junky approach pitch. Begin at a flat spot below a big tree, and yard away on roots and trees. Continue up the crack and make a 5.7 move up and right to gain a huge, dirty ledge system. Walk across this ledge system all the way to an obvious tower. Climb up the left corner of this tower, place some gear, and then traverse out to the right and flop onto the top of the tower. Fixed anchor on a big ledge. Full rope length pitch. Expect lots of rope drag.

Pitch 2 (5.9+) - Climb the thin crack directly above the belay (small gear, I placed a small nut and red alien) and work left to the first bolt. Good fun climbing. Continue up the bolts to a chain anchor at a semihanging stance. Short pitch.

Pitch 3 (5.9) - Bolts lead up to a ledge and another fixed anchor. Ignore this anchor and follow more bolts up the right arete. Great finishing moves with beautiful exposure! Another chain anchor. Another short pitch. This is a semihanging belay.

Pitch 4 (5.9+) - Take the left bolt line until the bolts run out. Work up the thin crack with good, thin gear until you reach an awkward roof. Reach high and right and clip a hidden bolt. Make the crux move (stemming and a right reach help) to clip another bolt below another roof. Good holds above the roof and a little more gear gets you to the final chain anchor. This pitch is awesome!

On a second trip up this climb, I comfortably linked pitches 2 and 3 listed above. To do this, you'll pass TWO sets of chain anchors on the 2nd pitch and belay at the anchors near a big flake. There was some rope drag, but nothing too serious.

Descent: Lots of bolted anchors makes for an easy rappel descent. There are a number of different anchors, so use whichever ones make sense for your rope length.

Location

Continue on the approach trail as it passes by the first buttress, crosses a gully, and gains the next buttress. A huge gnarled tree sitting in the crack about 30 feet high marks the start of the first pitch of this route. The route begins to the left of the most obvious arete system on the 2nd buttress, and has a nice flat area below the root system of the tree mentioned above.

Protection

Many bolts. Take a small rack including nuts and a single set of camming devices from small TCUs to a #3 Camalot. Long slings will help with rope drag.

Photos

Toby
Jackson, WY
Toby   Jackson, WY
XM direct is a new 40m, 12 bolt route to access the big ledge for XM arĂȘte or Clowns and Jokers. Around the corner right towards Do It For Doug a bit down the hill. 5.10/10+ crux comes at mid way. Continue up XM or walk down the ledge system to use the standard rap anchor for the original start. Jun 1, 2014