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Routes in Rock Springs Buttress

"Bacon Strip" T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Air Raid T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Albatross Roof T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Baby Cham Brings The Heat ! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Big Man on Campus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Big Wally T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blimpie T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bolt it G T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Box Car Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Box Car Boulder V6-7 7A+
Chant Down the Wicked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clowns and Jokers T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Coombs Crossover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crucify the Dread S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Direct Start to Exum Arete S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Do It For Doug S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exum Arete T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giver' for Givens T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Go, For Gary ! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Going Ghandi S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gothic Serpent T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grand Central S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gray Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hidden Gold T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hobo Rat Race S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ice Climb, The T WI5-6 M7
Ire' Tower T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Knockin' on the Sky T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Live to Ski S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Monkey Flower S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mule Skinner S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Munger Crack and Friends Pitch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Logo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old Mountaineer's Root T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Orange Member S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Other Ice Climb, The T WI4 M5
Piton Country T M5+
Pork Slab S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ptarmigan Tower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rainbow Country S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rasberry Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Red Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M7
Red, Gold and Green S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sky Lounge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sole Super Power S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Super Trad T M6+ R
This climb from the Tram (is recommended for climbers with expert abilities only.) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trash Culture S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triple Roofs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waste Products S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Whistle Pigs S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wish You Were Here S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Y - Not Wall (Amada's Route) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zion Stormtrooper S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
d S 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Type: Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Sam Macke, Nate Brown 2/12/15
Page Views: 309 total, 9/month
Shared By: Nate Brown on Feb 12, 2015
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

Hardest of the three big slab routes. Lots of vertical committing climbing.
Pitch 1: 30 meters. First 60' easy, followed by an awkward hard M6 section to a stance then another 20' of hard dihedral to a two bolt belay.

Pitch 2: 30 meters. Hard committing climbing marks the first and last fifteen feet of this pitch. Traverse 12' up and right off belay. Middle section of pitch was runout M5 with poor pro. Hatchety pins worked well on this pitch. Finish at a good stance and two bolts.

Pitch 3: 45 meters,M6 climbing straight above belay. Good fun hooking above crux to a good ledge, no bolts.

Pitch 4: 20 meters of excellent hooking with good foot holds. Finish at anchor 4 of "The Red Route" well to the right after achieving the big ledge.

Location

Starts on the ridge line that separates the slab from the steep "Gray Wall"

Protection

Doubles to red BD. 2,3,4 BD, medium amount of pins, specter was nice. Belays atop pitches one and two equipped with 3.5"x3/8" plated steel bolts and hangers. No lead bolts placed on FA.

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