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Routes in (b) Central Sector

Air Raid T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Baby Cham Brings The Heat ! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Big Man on Campus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Big Wally T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bolt it G T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Chant Down the Wicked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clowns and Jokers T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crucify the Dread S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Desbandere T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Direct Start to Exum Arete S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Do It For Doug S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Exum Arete T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giver' for Givens T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Go, For Gary ! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gothic Serpent T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grand Central S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gray Wall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hidden Gold T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Munger Crack and Friends Pitch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Mountaineer's Root T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Piton Country T M5+
Ptarmigan Tower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rainbow Country S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Red Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M7
Red, Gold and Green S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
School Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sky Lounge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Super Trad T M6+ R
This climb from the Tram (is recommended for climbers with expert abilities only.) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Wish You Were Here S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 315 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Nate Brown, Sam Macke
Page Views: 430 total · 10/month
Shared By: Nate Brown on Jan 2, 2015
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Description

Good rock, thin cracks that take pins, about forty feet of ice, frozen muck and moss sticks characterize the climbing. The route is on a huge slab with intermittent vertical bulges. Each pitch had a bit of a crux and generally the climbing is good as a mixed climb. The route would probably be a dirty, no-stars type affair in summer time.

Pitch 1 30 meters--climb the steep hand crack or go right 5.8 around then straight up fun broken alpine terrain to a good stance with two SS bolts.

Pitch 2 25 meters--climb the right trending hanging corners to two bolts that are followed by the ice section:straight up is steep awesome m6+ crack torqueing or take 5.8 path up and right to a two bolt SS anchor.

Pitch 3 20 meters--traverse right to good shallow corners that provide fun dry tooling up to a small, short technical chimney with awesome hooking and good small feet leading to another two bolt SS anchor.

Pitch 4 20 meters--climb diagonally up and right starting with a juggy mantle and moving across dirty and hard to protect terrain moving toward the arĂȘte di himney about fifteen feet left of the end of the gully. Climb on up to a slung evergreen tree.

Location

Left of the East buttress is a huge slab. Piton Country climbs the center of the huge slab. A nice fifteen foot hand crack bulge marks the bottom of the first pitch. The route is about 75' left of the mega-aesthetic Rasberry ArĂȘte.

Protection

Full free rack to 3 Camalot with plenty of pins will do the job. Bring medium and big beaks, blades, angles and shallow angles.

Belay bolts are all 3.5" x 3/8" stainless with stainless hangers. No lead bolts placed on FA.

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