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Routes in The Juggernaut

Arch Rival T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Beckey Route, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crimson Gem T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dihedral Route, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Agenda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Irresistable Force T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 750 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dave Nettle, John Fehrman. July 2000.
Page Views: 277 total, 7/month
Shared By: JimmyB on Jul 22, 2014
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route climbs the line just right of the large scoop on the main wall of the North Face.
P1: Various starts led to a thin right facing corner 5.10
P2: Move up into the strenuous slot. A variety of climbing techniques will see you thru the difficulties.5.10
P3: Easier climbing leads up to the steep roof
P4: Make the difficult moves thru the roof. Hard 5.10 Continue up the thin seam, then move left up to the big ledge.
P5: From the big ledge, there are three options to the top.
Option A: Climb the easy crack straight up from the left side of the ledge. 5.8
Option B: Start up the easy crack on the left side of the ledge, then move right up a splitter finger crack. 5.10-
Option C: From the right side of the ledge, climb up broken cracks, then traverse left up the splitter and then right up the finger crack to the top. This is the most sustained option. Manage rope drag. 5.10-

Location

This route ascend the center of the main North Face.
The descent is a quick walk off right. Follow the sandy gully down the west side of the peak and back to the base.

Protection

Doubles small cams to #2 Camalot.
Single #3, #4 Camalot, wires

Photos

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