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Routes in The Juggernaut

Arch Rival T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Beckey Route, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crimson Gem T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dihedral Route, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Agenda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Irresistable Force T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 750 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jim Barnes & Nate Greenberg
Page Views: 485 total, 12/month
Shared By: Nate Greenberg on Jul 22, 2014
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is an excellent route that climbs through the headwall and huge arch feature on the left side of the Juggernaut. The climb can be characterized by high quality splitter hand and finger cracks in really good stone.

P1: A somewhat mungy start leads to a killer 5.9 hand crack and a good stance with a gear belay.
P2: Step left off the belay. A fun and technical 5.10 finger crack in a left facing corner leads through a small blocky section to a good stance with a gear belay.
P3 : Climb onto the steep headwall through a slot feature and into a 5.10+ finger crack above. Easier climbing leads up and left to a large ledge. Belay on the left hand side of the big ledge with a piton and bolt for an anchor.
P4 : Climb the wild left-hand facing corner past The Keyhole and exit right via a steep 5.10 hand crack. Belay out on the face with a gear anchor.
P5 : Traverse up and right across 5.10 face climbing with natural pro to the first obvious vertical crack, then follow this to the summit.

Location

Climber's left side of the formation - the left hand most line on the wall.

The descent is a quick walk off right. Follow the sandy gully down the west side of the peak and back to the base.

Protection

Rack: Single #00, 0, wires. Double .3" - #3 Camalot.

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