Type: Trad, Alpine, 750 ft (227 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Galen Rowell, Vern Clevenger et. al. 1974
Page Views: 3,699 total · 38/month
Shared By: JimmyB on Jul 22, 2014
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski

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Description

This route climbs the main left facing corner feature up the middle of JuggernautÂ’s North Face.
P1: Tunnel under the big block. Climb the steep twin cracks on the right headwall. 5.10
P2: Continue up the corner.
P3: Keep to the right most of the corners. Stem and jam up and right to a stance. 5.10
P4: Several options take you to the left side of the big ledge.
P5: There are three options to the top.
Option A: Climb the easy crack straight up from the left side of the ledge. 5.8
Option B: Start up the easy crack on the left side of the ledge, then move right up a splitter finger crack. 5.10-
Option C: From the right side of the ledge, climb up broken cracks, then traverse left up the splitter and then right up the finger crack to the top. This is the most sustained option. Manage rope drag. 5.10-

Location

This route climbs the main dihedral on the center of the North Face.

The descent is a quick walk-off. Head straight back to the south, then traverse west towards the obvious sandy couloir, which will wrap you back around to the base.

Protection

Doubles 1 TCU-#2 Camalot
Single 0, #3 Camalot, #4 Camalot, wires

Photos