The Dihedral Route
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 750 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Galen Rowell, Vern Clevenger et. al. 1974|
|Page Views:||849 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||JimmyB on Jul 22, 2014|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThis route climbs the main left facing corner feature up the middle of Juggernauts North Face.
P1: Tunnel under the big block. Climb the steep twin cracks on the right headwall. 5.10
P2: Continue up the corner.
P3: Keep to the right most of the corners. Stem and jam up and right to a stance. 5.10
P4: Several options take you to the left side of the big ledge.
P5: There are three options to the top.
Option A: Climb the easy crack straight up from the left side of the ledge. 5.8
Option B: Start up the easy crack on the left side of the ledge, then move right up a splitter finger crack. 5.10-
Option C: From the right side of the ledge, climb up broken cracks, then traverse left up the splitter and then right up the finger crack to the top. This is the most sustained option. Manage rope drag. 5.10-
LocationThis route climbs the main dihedral on the center of the North Face.
The descent is a quick walk off right. Follow the sandy gully down the west side of the peak and back to the base.