Type: Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches
FA: Luke Potter / Erin Elliott 8/18
Page Views: 1,063 total · 27/month
Shared By: LSP on Sep 11, 2018
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

P1. 5.10-, 50m. Start in a short but prominent left facing corner, where the corner ends move up and right into a scrappy wide crack which can be avoided via finger crack on the right. Move up and left to the start of the splitter finger / hand crack.

P2. 5.10+, 55m. Climb the straight in splitter, make a crack switch into the left of the two parallel cracks, this crack thins out and makes for fun climbing. Use caution at the block and then enjoy finger locks over the bulge, easier climbing leads to a comfortable ledge on the arête.

P3. 5.8, 15m. A short wondering pitch to gain the next ledge on the arête. Head out right traversing along a thin ledge and then head up the crack to the roof, traverse left under the roof back to the arête.

P4. 5.11c, 50+m. Step right into the shallow left facing corner capped by a small roof, turn the roof on the right, continue up the excellent finger crack to a jug, clip a bolt out left and turn the arête. Continue up the path of least resistance eventually leading into the dihedral on the left. Manage rope drag! Spacious belay ledge shared with Arch Rival. 1 bolt and 1 pin belay.

*P5. 5.10, 40m. Ascend the excellent arch pitch of Arch Rival, instead of exiting right stay in the arch and exit left. Belay on a large sloping ledge.

P6. 5.8, 15m. Avoid the dirty wide cracks by moving slightly left, head straight up to the over-hanging blocky summit.

A bit of traffic/cleaning and this could become an excellent climb.

*The Arch Rival finish is better.

Location

This route is located on the far left side of the face left of the Dihedral Route. It is left of Arch Rival.

The descent is a quick walk-off. Head straight back to the south, then traverse west towards the obvious sandy couloir, which will wrap you back around to the base. 

Protection

60m rope
double: 00-#2, single: #3
micro-med stoppers (offsets)

Photos

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