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Routes in The Juggernaut

Arch Rival T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Beckey Route, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crimson Gem T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cyttorak T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dihedral Route, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Agenda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Irresistable Force T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 750 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Nate Greenberg, Jim Barnes. July, 2013
Page Views: 1,037 total · 20/month
Shared By: JimmyB on Jul 22, 2014
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This fun line is immediately left of The Dihedral Route. It climbs the corners and cracks up to and through the Triangle Roof.

P1: A short but challenging start up a right facing corner. 65’ 5.10-
P2: Climb thin seams up to base of big right facing corner. 140’ 5.10-
P3. Move right across face into left facing corner. Continue up corner to ledge below the Triangle Roof. 130’ 5.10-
P4: Jam up perfect hand to the Triangle Roof.Exit thru apex of roof and continue up to a stance. 5.9
P5: Follow cracks to top.

Location

This is the middle of three climbs that leave from this ledge/ alcove. It starts 20’ left of Dihedral Route in a right facing corner.

The descent is a quick walk off right. Follow the sandy gully down the west side of the peak and back to the base.

Protection

Doubles 0-#3 Camalot
Singles 00 and wires

Photos

Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
 
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
 
At the 5.10- rating, and the angle of the face, we expected a lot of hero jams. Instead, you encounter a ton of “hero locks” on Crimson Gem. There are hand jams here and there, some just where you need them... Overall though, this is a fingers route.
(which is pretty badass for low-to-mid 5.10 that climb’s such a steep line.)

Pitches 1-4 have mostly excellent rock.

The p4 Triangle Roof is sort of the cherry on top, as you get to bust some circus type moves to escape the roof’s alcove. At one point I was (standing) facing totally outward from the wall. Good pro, great exposure, and a moderate grade make this a super classic position.

3rd pitch is the definite crux imo. Once you get on top of a (maybe questionable?) flake you’re in a corner that is the steepest & most continuous part of the route. It looked like hands from the belay, but is instead steep (but locker) fingers on smearing feet for about 15-20 ft.

1-4 all have pretty distinct cruxes, and stacked on top of each other make for a solid outing. Go ahead and bring the full 5.10 toolbelt for this one.

Pitch 5 -- after pulling the initial bulge, there is 20-30 feet of kitty-litter choss. We did this thing onsight and didn’t drop a pebble, but that required ninja movement on this (otherwise easy) section of the 5th pitch. In hindsight on the walk down, it looked possible to traverse ~15-20ft right at the top of 4/beginning of 5 (before the final bulge) and finish on the dihedral route, where it sounds like there are other much more appealing options.

Coupled with the unbelievable Ansel Adams-esqe camping, the summit views of Hulk and the Sawtooths, the easy walk off, and mostly great rock, I gave ‘er the four stars. I sure had a classic time. I suppose the fifth pitch deserves an asterisk. 7 days ago

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