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Routes in The Juggernaut

Arch Rival T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Beckey Route, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crimson Gem T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dihedral Route, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Agenda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Irresistable Force T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 750 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Fred Beckey, Jack Roberts, Dave Black. September 1973.
Page Views: 298 total, 7/month
Shared By: JimmyB on Jul 22, 2014
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The ubiquitous Beckey Route! This is a plum line on crumbly rock. While aesthetically pleasing, this route is a tough one to recommend. The name “West Face” is a bit of a misnomer. The route is actually on the North Face of the peak.
P1: Climb up thru the wide roof, then continue up the right facing corner. 5.10
P2: Climb up loose flakes in a right facing corner. Continue up vertical kitty litter to a cool, right facing lie-back flake. Belay in crack above the flake. 5.10
P3: Move right off the belay across slabby face. There are two options. Move up the right facing corner and then up and right across the featured face to the 5.7 crack OR place gear high in the right facing corner, down climb and then move right into the 5.7 corner.
P4: This pitch is pretty good. Move up and left across corners and thru the “Slot of Doom”
P5: Follow the 5.6 splitter to the big ledge.
P6: From the big ledge, there are three options to the top.
Option A: Climb the easy crack straight up from the left side of the ledge. 5.8
Option B: Start up the easy crack on the left side of the ledge, then move right up a splitter finger crack. 5.10-
Option C: From the right side of the ledge, climb up broken cracks, then traverse left up the splitter and then right up the finger crack to the top. This is the most sustained option. Manage rope drag. 5.10-

Location

The Beckey Route climbs the plumb line up the center of the North Face. It is right of the Dihedral Route and left of the Big Scoop Roof.

Protection

Single rack to #4 Camalot. Doubles .3-#2 Camalot

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