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Routes in A. Shelter 1 Bluff

Barnes Overhang S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bulge, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Camel's Hump S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
City Limits S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Crackpot S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Dead Dog T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Dead Dog Walking S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Diagonal Direct S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dim View S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Double Barrel S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Drunkard's Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Easy Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Full Moon Foot Dance V1 5 X
George's Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Georges Nose S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Graves S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Gully, The S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hip Pocket S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Idiot, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Im A Bitch TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jill's S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Joe's Variation S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Layback Hump Linkup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Makanda Layback S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Monkey Moves S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Feet Are Smiling S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
No Vacancy TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nowhere S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Open Book Direct S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Poison Ivy Center T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Poison Ivy Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rappellers' Demise S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Right Side Route S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Saluki Strut S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shake And Bake Direct S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shake and Bake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Shotgun S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Slightly Harder Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smooth City S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Standing On Air S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Step Ladder S Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Tempura Tour "Classic" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tempura Tour "Complete" T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tiny Dancer S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk Up S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad
FA: Craig Barnes circa 1971
Page Views: 189 total · 4/month
Shared By: Dave Hug on Jul 5, 2014
Admins: Dave Hug

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Description

Layback the crack that comes out of the right side of the cave feature. Follow the first crack system until a horizontal, iron-banded ledge, clip the bolt and traverse right into the other crack system. Follow the crack and place gear as you climb. NOTE! As you near the end of the crack, excellent horizontal gear placements emerge. Pull the face moved under the upper bulge of the climb and clip a bolt. Face moves up and right lead to the anchor.

Note: this is an excellent route that leads very well with gear. Bolts are exactly where you need them.

Location

The route begins on the small crack on the leftside of the small cave to the left of Shotgun.

Protection

NOTE: It is highly recommended to stick clip the first bolt!

2 bolts, cams No. .5-3 (doubles in No. 1 & 2), + an anchor

Photos

Healyje
PDX
Healyje   PDX
Back in the day when there were only a very few climbs at Shelter 1 and there weren't 5.11s yet, this was everyone's introduction to 'hard' climbing. It's pretty much the seminal Barnes route. Mar 6, 2018

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