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Tempura Tour "Classic"
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.5 from 6
votes
Routes in A. Shelter 1 Bluff
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Anchors Away AKA Enchained Melody S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Barnes Overhang S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bulge, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Camel's Hump S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Charlie’s Traverse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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City Limits S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Crackpot S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Dead Dog T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dead Dog Walking S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Diagonal Direct S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Dim View S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Double Barrel S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Drunkard's Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Dumb View T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Easy Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Easy Face S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Full Moon Foot Dance V1 5 X |
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George's Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Georges Nose S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Graves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gully, The S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Hip Pocket S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hot Toddy S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Idiot, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Im A Bitch TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jill's S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Joe's Variation S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Layback Hump Linkup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Makanda Layback S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Monkey Moves S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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My Feet Are Smiling S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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No Vacancy TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Nowhere S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Open Book Direct S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Poison Ivy Center T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Poison Ivy Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rappellers' Demise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Right Side Route S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Saluki Strut S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Shake and Bake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Shake And Bake Direct S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shotgun S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Slightly Harder Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Smooth City S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Standing On Air S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Step Ladder S Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Tempura Tour "Classic" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tempura Tour "Complete" T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Tiny Dancer S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Walk Up S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Walking Gunslinger S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | Craig Barnes, Gene Charleton 1974 |
| Page Views: | 2,184 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Dave Hug on Jun 30, 2014 |
| Admins: | Aaron Mc, Dave Hug |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Stick Clipping Is Highly Recommended
Details
While all routes have been thoughtfully bolted, many lines contain a high first bolt. So, the local ethic is to stick clip the first bolt, and eliminate ground falls.
Description
This is the grand traverse that lets one venture across the Shelter 1 Bluff line. This route allows you to climb high above the grassy field below and avoids the harder sections underneath the overhang. A must for anyone desiring to explore the vertical sphere of the bluff. Absolute Classic!
Location
Pitch 1: Climb the Makanda Layback to the safety bolt, "give the old bolt a spin for good luck" and rig a belay backed up with a small nut.
Pitch 2: Traverse left through the Open Book gully and continue to the "jug chair" above Dim View and Jills. Than rig a belay.
Pitch 3: From here many options appear. Currently due to vegetation, most people climb straight up and finish from here, but depending on the time of year other variations may seem possible.
First Option: go either up or down 10-15 feet and traverse leftward into the Poison Ivy gully. From there climb nearly to the top and traverse leftward all the way to the Chimney in the woods. From there rig a hanging belay, followed by toping out.
Scary Option: (5.9) From the chimney traverse all the way to Georges as a 4th pitch. John Payne had to blindly place a Friend at his feet for the only "worthy" gear.
Pitch 2: Traverse left through the Open Book gully and continue to the "jug chair" above Dim View and Jills. Than rig a belay.
Pitch 3: From here many options appear. Currently due to vegetation, most people climb straight up and finish from here, but depending on the time of year other variations may seem possible.
First Option: go either up or down 10-15 feet and traverse leftward into the Poison Ivy gully. From there climb nearly to the top and traverse leftward all the way to the Chimney in the woods. From there rig a hanging belay, followed by toping out.
Scary Option: (5.9) From the chimney traverse all the way to Georges as a 4th pitch. John Payne had to blindly place a Friend at his feet for the only "worthy" gear.
Photos
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