All Locations > Illinois > Giant City Stat… > A. Shelter 1 Bluff

Tempura Tour "Classic"

Name: Tempura Tour "Classic"
Rating: 3.2

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in A. Shelter 1 Bluff

L › R R › L A › Z

	Barnes Overhang S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Bulge, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Camel's Hump S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	City Limits S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Crackpot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Dead Dog T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Dead Dog Walking S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Diagonal Direct S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Dim View S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Double Barrel S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Drunkard's Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Easy Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Full Moon Foot Dance V1 5 X
	George's Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Georges Nose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Graves S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Gully, The S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Hip Pocket S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Idiot, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Im A Bitch TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Jill's S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Joe's Variation S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Layback Hump Linkup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Makanda Layback S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Monkey Moves S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	My Feet Are Smiling S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	No Vacancy TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Nowhere S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Open Book Direct S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Poison Ivy Center T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Poison Ivy Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Rappellers' Demise S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Right Side Route S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
	Saluki Strut S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Shake And Bake Direct S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Shake and Bake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Shotgun S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Slightly Harder Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Smooth City S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Standing On Air S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Step Ladder S Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
	Tempura Tour "Classic" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Tempura Tour "Complete" T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Tiny Dancer S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Walk Up S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

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Type:	Trad, 400 ft, 6 pitches
FA:	Craig Barnes, Gene Charleton 1974
Page Views:	1,419 total · 28/month
Shared By:	Dave Hug on Jun 30, 2014
Admins:	Dave Hug

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Description

This is the grand traverse that lets one venture across the Shelter 1 Bluff line. This route allows you to climb high above the grassy field below and avoids the harder sections underneath the overhang. A must for anyone desiring to explore the vertical sphere of the bluff. Absolute Classic!

Location

Pitch 1: Climb the Makanda Layback to the safety bolt, "give the old bolt a spin for good luck" and rig a belay backed up with a small nut.

Pitch 2: Traverse left through the Open Book gully and continue to the "jug chair" above Dim View and Jills. Than rig a belay.

Pitch 3: From here many options appear. Currently due to vegetation, most people climb straight up and finish from here, but depending on the time of year other variations may seem possible.

First Option: go either up or down 10-15 feet and traverse leftward into the Poison Ivy gully. From there climb nearly to the top and traverse leftward all the way to the Chimney in the woods. From there rig a hanging belay, followed by toping out.

Scary Option: (5.9) From the chimney traverse all the way to Georges as a 4th pitch. John Payne had to blindly place a Friend at his feet for the only "worthy" gear.