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Routes in A. Shelter 1 Bluff

Barnes Overhang S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bulge, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Camel's Hump S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
City Limits S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crackpot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Dead Dog T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Dead Dog Walking S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Diagonal Direct S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dim View S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Double Barrel S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Drunkard's Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Easy Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Full Moon Foot Dance V1 5 X
George's Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Georges Nose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Graves S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Gully, The S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hip Pocket S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Idiot, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Im A Bitch TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jill's S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Joe's Variation S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Layback Hump Linkup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Makanda Layback S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Monkey Moves S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Feet Are Smiling S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
No Vacancy TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nowhere S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Open Book Direct S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Poison Ivy Center T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Poison Ivy Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rappellers' Demise S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Right Side Route S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Saluki Strut S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shake And Bake Direct S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shake and Bake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Shotgun S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Slightly Harder Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smooth City S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Standing On Air S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Step Ladder S Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Tempura Tour "Classic" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tempura Tour "Complete" T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tiny Dancer S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk Up S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Sport
FA: Doug Drewes & Joe Healy circa 1970's. Leo Kottke fans
Page Views: 119 total · 25/month
Shared By: Dave Hug on Feb 27, 2018
Admins: Dave Hug

You & This Route


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Description

PLEASE NOTE: If unfamiliar with the route, it is recommended to stick clip the first bolt.

Beginning on Graves, head up and right to a 2 foot "peanut" shaped hueco. From there work left for about a move, then back right and up through a honeycomb section into the cave of Crackpot. Work out and up the face to the anchor.

Location

Shares the same start as Graves.

Protection

6 bolts plus an anchor

Photos

Healyje
PDX
Healyje   PDX
Circa 1975 - Doug Drewes, Doug Allen, and Jim Foster (Tangen-Foster) are guitarists who at that time were just plowing through various artists from old folkways records from the SIU library to bluegrass, to Doc Watson and guys like Leo Kottke (who came to play at SIU a couple of times). Doug Drewes, in particular, got way into Kottke and also loved Graves. My Feet Are Smiling came out the combination of learning those tunes, his love of that stretch of the rock and his keen eye. Do the route and the naming of it is obvious. Beautiful movement and rests. Feb 28, 2018

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