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Routes in A. Shelter 1 Bluff

Barnes Overhang TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bulge, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Camel's Hump S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
City Limits T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b X
Crackpot T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Dead Dog T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Diagonal Direct S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dim View T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Double Barrel T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Drunkard's Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Easy Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Full Moon Foot Dance V1 5 X
George's Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Georges Nose T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Graves T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Gully, The S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hip Pocket S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Idiot, The TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jill's T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Joe's Variation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Layback Hump Linkup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Makanda Layback S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Monkey Moves S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nowhere S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Open Book Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Poison Ivy Center T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Poison Ivy Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rappellers' Demise T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Return to Forever "Classic" V3-4 6A+
Right Side Route S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Shake and Bake TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shotgun T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Smooth City S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Standing On Air S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Step Ladder S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Tempura Tour T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tempura Tour Complete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Thackery's Wackery V4 6B
Walk Up TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Joe Healy, Jim Foster 1970's
Page Views: 199 total · 4/month
Shared By: Dave Hug on May 20, 2014
Admins: Dave Hug

You & This Route


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Description

Begin at the base of Makanda Layback and climb up and left of M.L. setting yourself to climb up through the blank face

Location

Start on Makanda Layback, angle leftward and ascend the blank face. Stay left of the crack on Makanda Layback and right of Open Book's bowling ball pocket.

Protection

6 bolts + anchor

Photos

Healyje
PDX
  5.13a
Healyje   PDX
  5.13a
The route you have marked is Open Book Direct. Electric Koolaid Acid Test followed the line I've marked in red and was easily the hardest line out there by a wide margin. Unfortunately, the key hold came off the face on the second ascent attempt and the route became unclimbable. It and City Limits were the best climbs we did out there with EKAT markedly harder. This one stopped us for months on end and only went on a hit of purple microdot and even then I had zero expectation of getting up it. I'd just handed the rope to a non-climbing gymnast I'd just met and dropped with telling him to put the rope around his waist and walk backward while I climbed and walk forward when I fell off to lower me. I ended up getting it against all odds and my new friend ended up quite confused way back by the tree line. Feb 1, 2018

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