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Routes in A. Shelter 1 Bluff

Barnes Overhang S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bulge, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Camel's Hump S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
City Limits S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crackpot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Dead Dog T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Dead Dog Walking S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Diagonal Direct S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dim View S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Double Barrel S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Drunkard's Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Easy Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Full Moon Foot Dance V1 5 X
George's Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Georges Nose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Graves S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Gully, The S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hip Pocket S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Idiot, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Im A Bitch TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jill's S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Joe's Variation S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Layback Hump Linkup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Makanda Layback S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Monkey Moves S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Feet Are Smiling S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
No Vacancy TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nowhere S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Open Book Direct S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Poison Ivy Center T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Poison Ivy Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rappellers' Demise S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Right Side Route S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Saluki Strut S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shake And Bake Direct S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shake and Bake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Shotgun S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Slightly Harder Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smooth City S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Standing On Air S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Step Ladder S Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Tempura Tour "Classic" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tempura Tour "Complete" T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tiny Dancer S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk Up S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport
FA: Joe Healy, Jim Foster 1970's
Page Views: 334 total · 7/month
Shared By: Dave Hug on May 20, 2014
Admins: Dave Hug

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

Begin at the base of Makanda Layback and climb up and left of M.L. setting yourself to climb up through the blank face

Location [Suggest Change]

Start on Makanda Layback, angle leftward and ascend the blank face. Stay left of the crack on Makanda Layback and right of Open Book's bowling ball pocket.

Protection [Suggest Change]

7 bolts + anchor

Photos

Healyje
PDX
  5.13a
Healyje   PDX
  5.13a
Circa 1976 - The route you have marked is a variation of Open Book Direct. Electric Koolaid Acid Test followed the line I've marked in red and was easily the hardest line out there by a wide margin. Unfortunately, the key hold came off the face on the second ascent attempt and the route became unclimbable. It and City Limits were the best climbs we did out there with EKAT markedly harder. This one stopped us for months on end and only went on a hit of purple microdot and even then I had zero expectation of getting up it. I'd just handed the rope to a non-climbing gymnast I'd just met and dropped with telling him to put the rope around his waist and walk backward while I climbed and walk forward when I fell off to lower me. I ended up getting it against all odds and my new friend ended up quite confused way back by the tree line. Feb 1, 2018

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