Type: Sport
FA: Joe Healy, Jim Foster 1970's
Page Views: 405 total · 7/month
Shared By: Dave Hug on May 20, 2014
Admins: Dave Hug

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Begin at the base of Makanda Layback and climb up and left of M.L. setting yourself to climb up through the blank face

Location

Start on Makanda Layback, angle leftward and ascend the blank face. Stay left of the crack on Makanda Layback and right of Open Book's bowling ball pocket.

Protection

7 bolts + anchor

Photos

Healyje
PDX
  5.13a
Healyje   PDX
  5.13a
Circa 1976 - The route you have marked is a variation of Open Book Direct. Electric Koolaid Acid Test followed the line I've marked in red and was easily the hardest line out there by a wide margin. Unfortunately, the key hold came off the face on the second ascent attempt and the route became unclimbable. It and City Limits were the best climbs we did out there with EKAT markedly harder. This one stopped us for months on end and only went on a hit of purple microdot and even then I had zero expectation of getting up it. I'd just handed the rope to a non-climbing gymnast I'd just met and dropped with telling him to put the rope around his waist and walk backward while I climbed and walk forward when I fell off to lower me. I ended up getting it against all odds and my new friend ended up quite confused way back by the tree line. Feb 1, 2018