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Open Book Direct
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
Routes in A. Shelter 1 Bluff
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Barnes Overhang S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bulge, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Camel's Hump S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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City Limits S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Crackpot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Dead Dog T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dead Dog Walking S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Diagonal Direct S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Dim View S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Double Barrel S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Drunkard's Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Easy Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Full Moon Foot Dance V1 5 X |
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George's Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Georges Nose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Graves S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Gully, The S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Hip Pocket S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Idiot, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Im A Bitch TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jill's S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Joe's Variation S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Layback Hump Linkup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Makanda Layback S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Monkey Moves S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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My Feet Are Smiling S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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No Vacancy TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Nowhere S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Open Book Direct S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Poison Ivy Center T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Poison Ivy Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Rappellers' Demise S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Right Side Route S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Saluki Strut S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shake And Bake Direct S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shake and Bake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Shotgun S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Slightly Harder Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Smooth City S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Standing On Air S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Step Ladder S Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Tempura Tour "Classic" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tempura Tour "Complete" T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Tiny Dancer S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Walk Up S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Greg Bailey early 1970's |
| Page Views: | 324 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Dave Hug on May 19, 2014 |
| Admins: | Dave Hug |
Your Star Rating:
PDX
Note on Greg Bailey. He was a good friend, a wonderful artist and very creative climber from Quincy, IL. Greg belonged to the generation before of ours and more than anyone else was the one who really got us trad climbing. He also took us to do trad FAs at JF, Bellsmith Springs and various other venues around Southern Illinois. And that was a real distinction between us and that generation before us was a lot of them were also cavers and they all liked exploring Sothern Illinois and ranged all over the place. Their climbing wasn't focused on difficulty per se, but rather the adventure. We, on the other hand, locked hard onto Giant City with a kind of laser focus on the gymnastic kind of movement offered by the overhangs there and so spent far less time afield than the generation before us. The younger folks like Alan, Adam, and Eric who came up at Giant City during that period then fanned back out in adventure mode to find and do their own FAs with JF, Drapers, and SoIll sport climbing the result of that fan out. Mar 1, 2018