Type: Sport
FA: Greg Bailey early 1970's
Page Views: 393 total · 7/month
Shared By: Dave Hug on May 19, 2014
Admins: Dave Hug

You & This Route

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Begin at the base of the Makanda Layback, climb up and left to the bowling ball pocket, climb out through the Open Book gully.

Variation: Begin by climbing through the gully of Makanda Layback after climbing through its gully, traverse left into the open book formation and go up it.


Base of the Makanda Layback


6 bolts + an anchor


Healyje   PDX
Monkey time! What could possibly be more fun? It was also my first free solo as one day I came out and the place was deserted except for a couple of guitarists playing Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young on the top of the grassy slope just out from the bluff. Ended up just feeling it and touched the rock as they started playing "4 + 20" and walked off the top as they finished. As magical a day as they come.

Note on Greg Bailey. He was a good friend, a wonderful artist and very creative climber from Quincy, IL. Greg belonged to the generation before of ours and more than anyone else was the one who really got us trad climbing. He also took us to do trad FAs at JF, Bellsmith Springs and various other venues around Southern Illinois. And that was a real distinction between us and that generation before us was a lot of them were also cavers and they all liked exploring Sothern Illinois and ranged all over the place. Their climbing wasn't focused on difficulty per se, but rather the adventure. We, on the other hand, locked hard onto Giant City with a kind of laser focus on the gymnastic kind of movement offered by the overhangs there and so spent far less time afield than the generation before us. The younger folks like Alan, Adam, and Eric who came up at Giant City during that period then fanned back out in adventure mode to find and do their own FAs with JF, Drapers, and SoIll sport climbing the result of that fan out. Mar 1, 2018