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Routes in A. Shelter 1 Bluff

Barnes Overhang S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bulge, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Camel's Hump S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
City Limits S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crackpot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Dead Dog T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Dead Dog Walking S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Diagonal Direct S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dim View S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Double Barrel S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Drunkard's Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Easy Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Full Moon Foot Dance V1 5 X
George's Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Georges Nose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Graves S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Gully, The S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hip Pocket S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Idiot, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Im A Bitch TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jill's S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Joe's Variation S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Layback Hump Linkup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Makanda Layback S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Monkey Moves S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Feet Are Smiling S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
No Vacancy TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nowhere S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Open Book Direct S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Poison Ivy Center T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Poison Ivy Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rappellers' Demise S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Right Side Route S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Saluki Strut S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shake And Bake Direct S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shake and Bake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Shotgun S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Slightly Harder Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smooth City S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Standing On Air S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Step Ladder S Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Tempura Tour "Classic" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tempura Tour "Complete" T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tiny Dancer S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk Up S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Sport
FA: Greg Bailey early 1970's
Page Views: 349 total · 7/month
Shared By: Dave Hug on May 19, 2014
Admins: Dave Hug

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Description

Begin at the base of the Makanda Layback, climb up and left to the bowling ball pocket, climb out through the Open Book gully.

Variation: Begin by climbing through the gully of Makanda Layback after climbing through its gully, traverse left into the open book formation and go up it.

Location

Base of the Makanda Layback

Protection

6 bolts + an anchor

Photos

Healyje
PDX
 
Healyje   PDX
 
Monkey time! What could possibly be more fun? It was also my first free solo as one day I came out and the place was deserted except for a couple of guitarists playing Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young on the top of the grassy slope just out from the bluff. Ended up just feeling it and touched the rock as they started playing "4 + 20" and walked off the top as they finished. As magical a day as they come.

Note on Greg Bailey. He was a good friend, a wonderful artist and very creative climber from Quincy, IL. Greg belonged to the generation before of ours and more than anyone else was the one who really got us trad climbing. He also took us to do trad FAs at JF, Bellsmith Springs and various other venues around Southern Illinois. And that was a real distinction between us and that generation before us was a lot of them were also cavers and they all liked exploring Sothern Illinois and ranged all over the place. Their climbing wasn't focused on difficulty per se, but rather the adventure. We, on the other hand, locked hard onto Giant City with a kind of laser focus on the gymnastic kind of movement offered by the overhangs there and so spent far less time afield than the generation before us. The younger folks like Alan, Adam, and Eric who came up at Giant City during that period then fanned back out in adventure mode to find and do their own FAs with JF, Drapers, and SoIll sport climbing the result of that fan out. Mar 1, 2018

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