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Routes in A. Shelter 1 Bluff

Barnes Overhang S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bulge, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Camel's Hump S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
City Limits S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crackpot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Dead Dog T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Dead Dog Walking S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Diagonal Direct S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dim View S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Double Barrel S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Drunkard's Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Easy Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Full Moon Foot Dance V1 5 X
George's Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Georges Nose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Graves S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Gully, The S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hip Pocket S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Idiot, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Im A Bitch TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jill's S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Joe's Variation S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Layback Hump Linkup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Makanda Layback S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Monkey Moves S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Feet Are Smiling S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
No Vacancy TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nowhere S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Open Book Direct S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Poison Ivy Center T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Poison Ivy Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rappellers' Demise S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Right Side Route S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Saluki Strut S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shake And Bake Direct S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shake and Bake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Shotgun S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Slightly Harder Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smooth City S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Standing On Air S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Step Ladder S Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Tempura Tour "Classic" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tempura Tour "Complete" T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tiny Dancer S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk Up S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Elevation: 502 ft
GPS: 37.626, -89.201 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 17,991 total · 169/month
Shared By: Drew McWilson on Nov 27, 2009 with updates from Healyje
Admins: Dave Hug
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Description

Extremely featured great quality sandstone. A truly unique climbing experience. This is the home of progressive climbing in Illinois. Come climb these historic routes and share in these classic test pieces.

Getting There

From Springer Ridge Road the first big cliff that you see with the shelter.

Guidebook

The best guide for Giant City S.P. currently is Eric Ulner's book Vertical Heartland. His guide covers the main climbing routes of the park and primarily focuses on the classics of Shelter 1. Pick up your copy today at Shawnee Trails located in Carbondale Illinois.

47 Total Climbs

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Location: A. Shelter 1 Bluff Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Shelter 1 Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 10
Chimney
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 10
The Gully
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 12
Camel's Hump
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 7
Makanda Layback
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Tempura Tour "Classic"
Trad 6 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 6
Joe's Variation
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Barnes Overhang
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 3
Poison Ivy Center
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Shake And Bake Direct
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
Open Book Direct
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Georges Nose
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
The Idiot
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
 3
My Feet Are Smiling
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 3
Dim View
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chimney
 10
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
The Gully
 10
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Camel's Hump
 12
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Makanda Layback
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Sport
Tempura Tour "Classic"
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Joe's Variation
 6
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Barnes Overhang
 6
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Poison Ivy Center
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Shake And Bake Direct
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Open Book Direct
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Georges Nose
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Idiot
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
My Feet Are Smiling
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 Sport
Dim View
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Sport
More Classic Climbs in Shelter 1 Bluff »

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Healyje
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It should be noted that almost none of these routes were originally ever led, nor did we ever have any intention or desire to lead them as we had plenty of other rock elsewhere for that purpose. A couple of easy ones were led, but the rest that saw leads were more one-time 'exhibition' leads and could just have easily been free solos at the time. In fact, the cliff originally saw way more free solos than gear leads. The challenge of leading these routes came way after the fact by decades and to some extent still remain more a high-end novelty.

Another note is none of these routes were put up or climbed with chalk which isn't necessary and destroys the 'puzzle' aspect of figuring out these routes and make no mistake, the puzzle factor was half the fun of the place and just seeing the routes at all to do the FAs was as much a challenge as actually doing them.

David Hug, the administrator here, has done a lot of these bold new leads and has amended the ratings here to reflect that. But please don't let the r/x ratings here dissuade you from climbing these routes - just TR them as they were originally done. In the process you may find that might not be as easy as your typical over-hung sport route as on TR you're either climbing or flying - there's no hanging to sort out the details.

It should also be noted that all these Giant City routes represent the well-spring of the skills that went on to develop Drapers and Jackson Falls - if you ever get curious about where the developers of those areas cut their teeth then this is the place to come. Sep 20, 2016

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