Elevation: 502 ft
GPS: 37.626, -89.201 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 19,997 total · 181/month
Shared By: Drew McWilson on Nov 27, 2009 with updates from Healyje
Admins: Dave Hug
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Extremely featured great quality sandstone. A truly unique climbing experience. This is the home of progressive climbing in Illinois. Come climb these historic routes and share in these classic test pieces.

Resources

[[Illinois Climbers Association]]ilclimbers.org
Founded in 2002. The Illinois Climbers Association is a charitable organization representing the climbers of Illinois. We are dedicated to preserving climbing and bouldering access in Illinois through education, conservation, and cooperation.

Mission

The Illinois Climbers Association is a 501(c)3 charitable organization created to:

  1. Promote and support conservation and preservation of both rock climbing and bouldering areas, and their respective natural resources in Illinois
  2. Encourage optimal recreational use of Illinois outdoor climbing resources through land stewardship education and by facilitating cooperation between climbers, private land owners, and public land managers
  3. Encourage and promote the development of policies and practices that will preserve climbing and bouldering areas in Illinois

HELP THE ICA RETRO-BOLT GIANT CITY! 
**PLEASE DONATE**
Click HERE to donate towards the Illinois Climber Association's retro-bolting cause. The ICA has been instrumental in conserving access to the climbing at GIANT CITY. If you have any questions, comments or concerns feel free to contact them.

Guidebook

The best guide for Giant City S.P. currently is Eric Ulner's book Vertical Heartland. His guide covers the main climbing routes of the park and primarily focuses on the classics of Shelter 1. Pick up your copy today at Shawnee Trails located in Carbondale Illinois.

47 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: A. Shelter 1 Bluff Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Shelter 1 Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 11
The Gully
Sport
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 11
Chimney
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 12
Camel's Hump
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 8
Makanda Layback
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Tempura Tour "Classic"
Trad 6 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 5
Poison Ivy Center
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Tiny Dancer
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 5
Open Book Direct
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
Hip Pocket
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
Shake And Bake Direct
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 11
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
The Idiot
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 4
Dim View
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
 3
Crackpot
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 3
City Limits
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Gully
 11
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Chimney
 11
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Camel's Hump
 12
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Makanda Layback
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Sport
Tempura Tour "Classic"
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Poison Ivy Center
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Tiny Dancer
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Open Book Direct
 5
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Hip Pocket
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Shake And Bake Direct
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test
 11
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Idiot
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Dim View
 4
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Sport
Crackpot
 3
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 Sport
City Limits
 3
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Shelter 1 Bluff »

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Healyje
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It should be noted that almost none of these routes were originally ever led, nor did we ever have any intention or desire to lead them as we had plenty of other rock elsewhere for that purpose. A couple of easy ones were led, but the rest that saw leads were more one-time 'exhibition' leads and could just have easily been free solos at the time. In fact, the cliff originally saw way more free solos than gear leads. The challenge of leading these routes came way after the fact by decades and to some extent still remain more a high-end novelty.

Another note is none of these routes were put up or climbed with chalk which isn't necessary and destroys the 'puzzle' aspect of figuring out these routes and make no mistake, the puzzle factor was half the fun of the place and just seeing the routes at all to do the FAs was as much a challenge as actually doing them.

David Hug, the administrator here, has done a lot of these bold new leads and has amended the ratings here to reflect that. But please don't let the r/x ratings here dissuade you from climbing these routes - just TR them as they were originally done. In the process you may find that might not be as easy as your typical over-hung sport route as on TR you're either climbing or flying - there's no hanging to sort out the details.

It should also be noted that all these Giant City routes represent the well-spring of the skills that went on to develop Drapers and Jackson Falls - if you ever get curious about where the developers of those areas cut their teeth then this is the place to come. Sep 20, 2016