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Routes in A. Shelter 1 Bluff

Barnes Overhang S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bulge, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Camel's Hump S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
City Limits S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crackpot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Dead Dog T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Dead Dog Walking S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Diagonal Direct S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dim View S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Double Barrel S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Drunkard's Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Easy Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Full Moon Foot Dance V1 5 X
George's Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Georges Nose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Graves S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Gully, The S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hip Pocket S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Idiot, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Im A Bitch TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jill's S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Joe's Variation S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Layback Hump Linkup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Makanda Layback S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Monkey Moves S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Feet Are Smiling S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
No Vacancy TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nowhere S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Open Book Direct S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Poison Ivy Center T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Poison Ivy Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rappellers' Demise S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Right Side Route S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Saluki Strut S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shake And Bake Direct S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shake and Bake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Shotgun S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Slightly Harder Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smooth City S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Standing On Air S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Step Ladder S Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Tempura Tour "Classic" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tempura Tour "Complete" T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tiny Dancer S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk Up S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport
FA: Joe Healy, Jim Foster 1976
Page Views: 858 total · 17/month
Shared By: Dave Hug on Jul 5, 2014
Admins: Dave Hug

You & This Route


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Description

One of the first 5.12's in the country. Starting on good holds, climb the overhanging pocketed face. Rest on the slab about midway up, then pull your way up the next overhang. The pocket pulling was futuristic for its time.

The initial crux has been soloed by Adam Grosowsky, Alan Carrier, and Jim Thurmond. Also has been led by Jim Thurmond through the upper section overhang in the late 1980's

Location

Nestled between Jill's and Poison Ivy Right, climb through the pocketed face while avoiding both crack systems.

Protection

Stick Clip The First Bolt!

4 bolts + anchor
Healyje
PDX
Healyje   PDX
The full name is Karma City Limits. It took something on the order of seven months of work from the day we first saw the line. It's also a line we walked under every day for several years before we developed an eye and the experience to even see it as was the case for a number of those lines. It got the name because every time we came out to work on it something cool on the periphery would happen with complete strangers feeding us, getting us high or playing guitars while we climbed, etc.

We were stuck for a long time at the big dyno. I couldn't stick the dyno and eventually wrecked my left shoulder by not letting go of the lower hold when I missed it which led me to months of belaying Jim who could stick it but couldn't sort out the next move. The only reason I got the line was because of those months of belaying Jim and being forced to just watch. It was pretty maddening for both of us and decades later that shoulder still reminds me of City Limits anytime I inadvertently recreate something close to that dyno. Mar 1, 2018
Healyje
PDX
Healyje   PDX
Well, retrobolting this was an totally dick move by all involved. Apr 5, 2018

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