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Routes in The Noir Boulder

A.C.L. V10 7C+
Crack Problem, The V3+ 6A+
Not Without Hope V11 8A
Shake Junt V8 7B
Stone Cold Stunner V7-8 7B
Warmup , The V2 5+
Way of the Samurai V9-10 7C+
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Seth Carter
Page Views: 831 total, 19/month
Shared By: r. tyler gross on Apr 17, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Again, had to pick a grade it is a requirement. This is hard to know for this line as it has only seen one ascent that I know of. Just left of Shake joint, start on down pulling hole. Cross left hand to two finger slopey pocket and out to gaston. Head straight up the arete-like feature on bad slopers and find your way out.

Protection

pad

Photos

Duke Lettieri
Santa Barbara, CA
  V9-10
Duke Lettieri   Santa Barbara, CA
  V9-10
youtu.be/oCOwwPS6ItY Aug 30, 2016
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  V9-10
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
  V9-10
So it turns out that perhaps Bernd WASN'T the first ascentionist. We went to the Noir Boulder together and while he did recognize doing lines like Shake Junt, ACL didn't jog his memory. So Seth probably nabbed first crank.

Anyhoo, Bernd and I put this one down this last Thursday night, on a cool June evening. Awesome sesh, and very memorable. I spent about three sessions working the problem, then sent on the fourth, with good conditions and fresh tips. I'm not terribly confident in grading this problem, but I will say that good technique will get you much further than brute strength. The moves are surprisingly subtle for how burly they are. Probably V10, but maybe at the easier end of the grade.

Impressive footnote: Bernd sent on his third attempt (with a complete beta-spraydown courtesy of me).

By the way, don't even think about trying this problem if you aren't solid in the two-finger department. Jun 13, 2014