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Routes in The Noir Boulder

A.C.L. V10 7C+
Crack Problem, The V3+ 6A+
Not Without Hope V11 8A
Shake Junt V8 7B
Stone Cold Stunner V7-8 7B
Warmup , The V2 5+
Way of the Samurai V9-10 7C+
Type: Boulder
FA: Maybe Thomas Townsend? Bernd?
Page Views: 323 total, 7/month
Shared By: andy patterson on May 4, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Looking for a burly traverse? This line provides some hard, stretched-out moves on good holds, with lots of foot re-adjustments. Powerful, and surprisingly technical. Also pumpy.

Start sitting as for Shake Junt, then traverse up and left through myrad pockets, crimps, and pinches. Figure out how to transition feet left, and gain the jugs on the central "warm up" of the Noir Boulder (doesn't have a name, but it's the easiest "up" line on the boulder). The top-out isn't hard, but don't expect a giveaway.

Very tiring!

Location

Begins at the far right of the boulder. Same start as Shake Junt. To wit: sit start with left hand on big hueco and right hand on undercling.

Protection

Good paddage.

Photos

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andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Grading was tricky. Thomas did it first, then me, then Dean. All of us thought it was in the 7-8 ballpark. But that's just three opinions. Personally, I grade traverses based on She Made Me Do It, which I believe is THE benchmark for V8 (locally), and a litmus test for how easy or hard something claims to be. Stone Cold Stunner felt about as hard as She Made Me Do It. Maybe slightly easier, but not by much. May 4, 2014