Type: Boulder, 40 ft
FA: Jondo
Page Views: 725 total · 13/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Jun 7, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

An odyssey of burl. Start with both hands matched on the massive undercling lip thingy, then traverse right through awesome pockets, crazy footwork, myriad dynamic moves, and finally finish on Shake Junt, via the heinous move to a jug (NOT the easy left-exit).

A good workout, by the way.

Anyone who has climbed with me knows how partial I am to traverses. So yes, I'm biased. But I promise: this rig is exceptionally fun, sustained, and gymnastic.

Location

Begins at left end of boulder, on huge lip/undercling.

Protection

Get good paddage for the last moves. Double pads is a good idea. The last move is literally the crux. Expect the heartbreak...

Photos

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  V9-10
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
  V9-10
it's a 40' long traverse. Jun 8, 2014
Nice find! Looks fun/hard! Jun 13, 2014
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  V9-10
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
  V9-10
Finally, some historical info on this great problem! When I finished this traverse, I thought I was the first-ascentionist. I was wrong—Jondo beat me to it. Figures. Dude cranked(s). Thanks for the vid, Garratt Wilkin (see Noir Boulder intro page: mountainproject.com/v/the-n…). Jondo rated it V10. I'm amenable to that rating, as well as the V9+ rating. It's friggin hard either way.

I named the problem Dances With Wolves (a.k.a. The Kevin Costner Challenge), but I will gladly defer to Jondo's name. May 12, 2016