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Routes in The Noir Boulder

Elevation: 1,920 ft
GPS: 34.504, -119.813 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,012 total · 55/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Apr 14, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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The Noir boulder is a large, nicely featured river boulder that touts a handful of excellent problems, and some extremely difficult projects. In addition, a small collection of diminutive boulders sit in close proximity to the Noir boulder. Expect a somewhat low volume of problems, with very high quality movement. This place has seen a lot of on-again-off-again attention over the years, and it's almost impossible to figure out who did what when. The obvious lines have been done for years, but the harder projects remain (I think) undone. Landings are generally okay, but this stone has some airy and fairly mossy topouts. Clean your exits before sending!

Getting There

From SB, drive up the 154, and when you get to West Camino Cielo (per all the West Camino bouldering destinations) make a left. Immediately park in pullout. A quick downhill walk in to the creekbed will get you to the goods.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Noir Boulder

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V8 7B
Shake Junt
V10 7C+
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Shake Junt
V8 7B Boulder
V10 7C+ Boulder
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andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
While it has fallen in to disuse in recent years (until recently), The Noir boulder has seen lots of attention from key players and psyched boulder-seekers like Russell Erickson (who initially cleaned the boulder), Jason Kamen, Bernd Zeugswetter, and Brian Spiering—to name just a few. Back in 2003 or 2004 (I think) I remember Jason Kamen working some hard traversing lines L-R, and I know for a fact that Bernd did literally every single hard "up" line in the creekbed, including Shake Junt (a la the "high" start... Jackson added the low start when he moved the boulder) and a number of others. I never contributed much to the area, since I was always on my way to Lizard's Mouth or The Brickyard.

Currently, I'm very psyched on this area. It's EXACTLY 12 minutes from my house, and has very nice rock. And kudos to Seth, Jackson, Tyler, et al. You guys are reinvigorating a great spot.

Also of note is Upper Noir, a small cluster of boulders directly uphill from the main Noir Boulder. I'll post more on Upper Noir later, but there is literally one of the best V6ish problems around up there. Here's some old posts of historical interest from the every-psyched Brian Spiering:

americanrivierabouldering.b… Apr 26, 2014
I seem to remember seeing video of Jondo doing something at Noir years ago (2008ish?). It was a traverse around a corner into some long up moves? He sent and named whatever it was. I think "samurai" was part of the name and it was v10? Have tried to find the video with no luck. Anyone else remember anything about this? Perhaps it is one of the lines listed here. Feb 21, 2015
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Micah, I remember that as well. I think it was a traversing problem, but I think it was up the hill at Upper Noir (I could totally be wrong). If you go there, you can find a nice little cave that has an obvious sit-start with an obvious L-R trend, finishing on a crux "up" move. I recall Mr. Dusatko and company meandering up there and establishing problems, and while I think they rated said problem on the steeper side of things, I believe It clocks in around V6 or V7. Hard, but not V10. I should add that it's an unbelievably good line. I haven't posted it because I've been super busy and forgot. Go check it out!

But Jondo COULD have done one of the traversing lines on Noir, as well (Jondo cranked... and he also holds the distinction of being the only V10+ climber to climb too high on the Lizard's Mouth traverse, brake a hold, fall, and brake his ankle). Again, the only established line I know of was Jason's traverse from the far left cave in to the juggy patina warmup. The Kevin Costner Challenge would be the next obvious choice: it has many hard moves and gets within spitting distance of V10. Who knows? I fell out of touch with Jondo, but maybe someone could email Paul. Feb 22, 2015
Here is the video of Jondo climbing "way of the samurai"… May 12, 2016

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