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Routes in The Noir Boulder

A.C.L. V10 7C+
Crack Problem, The V3+ 6A+
Not Without Hope V11 8A
Shake Junt V8 7B
Stone Cold Stunner V7-8 7B
Warmup , The V2 5+
Way of the Samurai V9-10 7C+
Type: Boulder
FA: Jackson Adair
Page Views: 710 total, 16/month
Shared By: r. tyler gross on Apr 17, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Sit start on big pockets. Head straight up with flowingly awesome movement through the crux that is gaining the lip. Hard shoulder moves and big move to the jug will find you standing on top.
I had to pick a grade but as more folks do this rig we will gain better understanding of what this line is-could be harder? could be easier?

EDIT: there is an alternative (read: significantly easier) finish to Shake Junt as well. Instead of the burly deadpoint to the bucket-jug, finish up and left, using the slopey jug on the warmup. Still good, just not as hard.

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pad

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andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  V8
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
  V8
Also, I know Jackson added a low-low-start when he moved the boulder, but Bernd topped this out, along with a bunch of other lines here, over five years ago. Apr 26, 2014
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  V8
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
  V8
Great work on the landing, guys! This problem follows a tempting line of pockets, and gets savage at the very, very top! Not a gimme. I sent after working the moves for about 30 minutes, but I am a tad taller than my climbing partners (who happen to be a tad burlier than I), so I reeled this one in without too much drama. Still, the top-out was quite hard, and doesn't really favor the tall or the short. That said, the lower crux is STIFF for shorties.

Apr 18, 2014