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Routes in The Noir Boulder

A.C.L. V10 7C+
Crack Problem, The V3+ 6A+
Not Without Hope V11 8A
Shake Junt V8 7B
Stone Cold Stunner V7-8 7B
Warmup , The V2 5+
Way of the Samurai V9-10 7C+
Type: Boulder, 30 ft
FA: Pablo Hammack
Page Views: 249 total, 16/month
Shared By: Pablo Hammack on Aug 20, 2016
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Starts on the huge undercling on the left side of the boulder and traverses right into the starting pockets of A.C.L. then tops out straight up. I was falling day after day on the last two hard moves but it eventually happened. Very brutal climb so go get it done and tell me whatcha think!

Location

Starts on a big undercling on left side of the boulder and finishes into A.C.L.

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Nice work Pablo! Looks like I gotta bust out the kneepad... YeeeehaaaW! Aug 30, 2016
I did a bunch of heel and toe hooks to get over to the start of the 3. I'll have a video up probably today. One of my all time favorites in SB. Aug 25, 2016
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Nice. That was scholarly argued, Pablo. What did you think of So I Did It? That press move out left? Awesome.

I agree about the ratings for Way of the Samurai and So I Did It. I should also note that even though Bernd thought ACL was very soft if it was a 10, I happened to think it WAS super hard. Different styles abound. Aug 25, 2016
A.C.L doesn't feel any easier to other 10's I've done in the past especially adding a couple v6 moves before it. Over the weekend I also sent So I Did It and Way of the Samurai which I thought were both solid 9's. Not Without Hope felt way harder then these two by far. In Bishop there are two v10 traverses (Low Rider and Action Jackson) that I did this winter and they both seemed easier then Not Without Hope. These were my best comparison for grading since there both linkups similar to the one on Noir. Once it gets another ascent it can be narrowed down but I'm certain on the 11 grade. Aug 24, 2016
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Nicely done, Pablo. Bernd and I fell a bunch on that last move. In fact, Bernd sustained a shoulder-wrenching injury falling off the move to the sloper, and he almost had to get surgery! Bernd thought ACL was closer to V8 or V9, and you do get a rest on the traverse before ACL, so his (and my) best guess was V10. But we never sent, so we can't talk. For sure one of the harder traverses around.

Have you done the other hard traverse on this boulder? Or did you do all the Skofield traverses yet? Those might help you calibrate grades. Aug 22, 2016