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Ellingwood Couloir
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British AI2 Steep Snow
Avg: 3 from 4
votes
Routes in Middle Teton
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Beyer South Ridge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bonney's Pinnacle - East Face & South Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Buckingham (SE) Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chouinard Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow |
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Dike Pinnacle North Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Mod. Snow |
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Dike Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow |
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Ellingwood Couloir T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Steep Snow |
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Middle Finger, Northwall, Taylor, Inge's/Mega T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c WI1 A1 |
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Middle Teton Glacier Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Mod. Snow |
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North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Northwest Ice Couloir T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2 |
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Pinocchio Pinnacle - East Face T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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South Chimney Finish of Southeast (Buckingham) Ridge of Middle Teton T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Southwest Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow |
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| Type: | Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), Grade II |
| FA: | Robert Ellingwood 1923 |
| Page Views: | 2,717 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Taylor-B. on Feb 1, 2014 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
The Ellingwood Couloir was the FA route for the Middle Teton. When in condition it makes for a good ski mountaineering line or steep snow climb. In the summer the couloir is laden with wet kitty litter slabs, and rock fall; this can make accessing the Buckingham Buttress a bit tricky.
From the TH to the summit is about 6,000ft, with 2,000ft of climbing. Take the south fork of Garnet Canyon to reach the south side of the Middle Teton. Ascend up the couloir with snow up to 45deg, you join the Middlle Glacier route and continue up steep snow and 5.5 rock. The easeast descent is the SW Couloir.
From the TH to the summit is about 6,000ft, with 2,000ft of climbing. Take the south fork of Garnet Canyon to reach the south side of the Middle Teton. Ascend up the couloir with snow up to 45deg, you join the Middlle Glacier route and continue up steep snow and 5.5 rock. The easeast descent is the SW Couloir.
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