Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Middle Teton

Buckingham (SE) Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chouinard Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Dike Pinnacle North Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dike route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ellingwood Couloir T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Steep Snow
Middle Finger, Northwall, Inge's T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c WI1 A1
Middle Teton Glacier Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Mod. Snow
North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Northwest Ice Couloir T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2-3
Southwest Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2000 ft, Grade II
FA: Robert Ellingwood 1923
Page Views: 929 total, 20/month
Shared By: Taylor-B. on Feb 1, 2014
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route

3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


The Ellingwood Couloir was the FA route for the Middle Teton. When in condition it makes for a good ski mountaineering line or steep snow climb. In the summer the couloir is laden with wet kitty litter slabs, and rock fall; this can make accessing the Buckingham Buttress a bit tricky.

From the TH to the summit is about 6,000ft, with 2,000ft of climbing. Take the south fork of Garnet Canyon to reach the south side of the Middle Teton. Ascend up the couloir with snow up to 45deg, you join the Middlle Glacier route and continue up steep snow and 5.5 rock. The easeast descent is the SW Couloir.


Light rock rack, crampons and a ice axe.


After topping out the couloir and turning west you want to stay climbers right to reach the true summit. The left goes up the south summit, which is detached and inconvenient if you're descending the SW couloir Jul 1, 2017