Avg: 2 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Snow, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches|
|FA:||Aug. 2, 2008 Aaron Gams and Brian Mulvihill|
|Page Views:||2,044 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Gams on Sep 3, 2008|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson|
P2 Start up toward the obvious large blocky RF dihedral, but take the ramp about 10' up right to avoid the large blocky loose dihedral. Instead, step left to undercling flakes (5.8) to reach next right-tending ramp to LF 5.9+ dihedral. Belay on small ledge. ~40m
P3 Continue straight up LF 5.9 dihedral to ledges and mantles. Pull on a well-attached flake (5.8) into steep terrain and into a RF dihedral (5.9). Belay just right of some blocks on right-leaning ramp. ~45m
P4 Scramble up right-leaning ramp for about 20', then straight up steep cracks to flakes (5.9). Steep, but easier terrain above, then head left on ramp to a final 5.9 hand / stem. A thin, no-pro dihedral about 30' out on initial right-leaning ramp is off-route...step back down about 10'. ~50m
Either finish with the Dike Route (not trivial) from the summit of the Dike Pinnacle (grade IV to summit of Middle), or descend the pinnacle east back to the lower glacier.
This route starts half-way up the Middle Teton glacier, making for a mini-alpine climb. The climbing is consistent, with many cruxes on good rock. Slightly dirty, until more folks climb it. Only the slightly loose beginning detracts from the overall good quality.