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Routes in Middle Teton

Buckingham (SE) Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chouinard Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Mod. Snow
Dike Pinnacle North Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Mod. Snow
Dike route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow
Ellingwood Couloir T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Steep Snow
Middle Finger, Northwall, Inge's T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c WI1 A1
Middle Teton Glacier Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Mod. Snow
North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Northwest Ice Couloir T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2
South Chimney Finish of Southeast (Buckingham) Ridge of Middle Teton T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Southwest Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 3000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: W. Buckingham, V. Day, 1954
Page Views: 8,119 total · 58/month
Shared By: George Bell on Mar 20, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Description

From the Meadows head up the south fork of Garnet Canyon. The Buckingham Ridge climbs the buttress forming the left side of the Ellingwood Couloir (see location below). This buttress is broad and many variations are possible.

The standard route follows the right edge of the buttress for 4 pitches to a notch. Here the buttress is narrower and your options are fewer. From a belay on chockstones, climb the face of a tower. Continue upward 3 or 4 more pitches to the South Summit. You can bypass the South Summit on the right if you like.

It is not easy to get off the South Summit, to continue do a short rappel into the notch towards the main summit and then walk to the main summit.

Location

The east ridge, with it's dike, contains a prominent pinnacle called the Dike Pinnacle. SW of this pinnacle is the Ellingwood Couloir. The Buckingham Ridge follows the buttress forming the left hand edge of this couloir, and leads directly to the South Summit in 8 or 9 pitches.

Protection

Standard rack.

Descent

Downclimb the Southwest Couloir route.

History

I've always called this route the Buckingham Ridge, in honor of William Buckingham who did many early Teton ascents. In the guidebook it is simply called the Southeast Ridge. Buckingham put up this route as well as Mt. Owen's Serendipity Arete, and many others.
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
This is a wonderful long moderate with a fair shake of "alpine" issues: routefinding, dealing with the Ellingwood Couloir (which can be nasty), and keeping a quick pace. Quality of rock, however, is not an issue. Enjoy! Apr 3, 2007
Peter Lenz
Salt Lake City
  5.7 PG13
Peter Lenz   Salt Lake City
  5.7 PG13
Prospective climbers should be aware that the usual approach to the buttress ascends the lower portion of the Ellingwood Couloir, which involves moderate snow climbing. Consider appropriate foot wear, ice axe, and possibly crampons or micro spikes. The usual descent route (down the South Couloir), is snow filled in early season. Feb 23, 2018

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