Buckingham (SE) Ridge
Avg: 3.1 from 12 votes
Routes in Middle Teton
|Buckingham (SE) Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Chouinard Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c|
|Dike Pinnacle North Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Dike route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Ellingwood Couloir T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Steep Snow|
|Middle Finger, Northwall, Inge's T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c WI1 A1|
|Middle Teton Glacier Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Mod. Snow|
|North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Northwest Ice Couloir T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2-3|
|Southwest Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 3000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||W. Buckingham, V. Day, 1954|
|Page Views:||7,548 total, 58/month|
|Shared By:||George Bell on Mar 20, 2007|
DescriptionFrom the Meadows head up the south fork of Garnet Canyon. The Buckingham Ridge climbs the buttress forming the left side of the Ellingwood Couloir (see location below). This buttress is broad and many variations are possible.
The standard route follows the right edge of the buttress for 4 pitches to a notch. Here the buttress is narrower and your options are fewer. From a belay on chockstones, climb the face of a tower. Continue upward 3 or 4 more pitches to the South Summit. You can bypass the South Summit on the right if you like.
It is not easy to get off the South Summit, to continue do a short rappel into the notch towards the main summit and then walk to the main summit.