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Buckingham (SE) Ridge
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3.4 from 32
votes
Routes in Middle Teton
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Beyer South Ridge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bonney's Pinnacle - East Face & South Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Buckingham (SE) Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chouinard Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow |
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Dike Pinnacle North Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Mod. Snow |
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Dike Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow |
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Ellingwood Couloir T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Steep Snow |
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Middle Finger, Northwall, Taylor, Inge's/Mega T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c WI1 A1 |
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Middle Teton Glacier Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Mod. Snow |
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North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Northwest Ice Couloir T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2 |
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Pinocchio Pinnacle - East Face T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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South Chimney Finish of Southeast (Buckingham) Ridge of Middle Teton T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Southwest Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 3000 ft (909 m), 10 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 43.72992, -110.81132 |
| FA: | W. Buckingham, V. Day, 1954 |
| Page Views: | 12,152 total · 53/month |
| Shared By: | George Bell on Mar 20, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Description
From the Meadows head up the south fork of Garnet Canyon. The Buckingham Ridge climbs the buttress forming the left side of the Ellingwood Couloir (see location below). This buttress is broad and many variations are possible.
The standard route follows the right edge of the buttress for 4 pitches to a notch. Here the buttress is narrower and your options are fewer. From a belay on chockstones, climb the face of a tower. Continue upward 3 or 4 more pitches to the South Summit. You can bypass the South Summit on the right if you like.
It is not easy to get off the South Summit, to continue do a short rappel into the notch towards the main summit and then walk to the main summit.
Location
The east ridge, with it's dike, contains a prominent pinnacle called the Dike Pinnacle. SW of this pinnacle is the Ellingwood Couloir. The Buckingham Ridge follows the buttress forming the left hand edge of this couloir, and leads directly to the South Summit in 8 or 9 pitches.
History
I've always called this route the Buckingham Ridge, in honor of William Buckingham who did many early Teton ascents. In the guidebook it is simply called the Southeast Ridge. Buckingham put up this route as well as Mt. Owen's Serendipity Arete, and many others.
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