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Northwest Ice Couloir
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British AI2
Avg: 3 from 35
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Routes in Middle Teton
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Beyer South Ridge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bonney's Pinnacle - East Face & South Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Buckingham (SE) Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chouinard Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow |
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Dike Pinnacle North Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Mod. Snow |
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Dike Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow |
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Ellingwood Couloir T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Steep Snow |
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Middle Finger, Northwall, Taylor, Inge's/Mega T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c WI1 A1 |
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Middle Teton Glacier Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Mod. Snow |
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North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Northwest Ice Couloir T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2 |
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Pinocchio Pinnacle - East Face T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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South Chimney Finish of Southeast (Buckingham) Ridge of Middle Teton T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Southwest Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow |
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| Type: | Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | June 16, 1961. Peter Lev and James Greig. |
| Page Views: | 10,183 total · 59/month |
| Shared By: | Frosty Weller on Aug 31, 2010 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
The Northwest Ice Couloir is a great alpine outing that involves moderate rock, snow and ice climbing in an outrageous setting. It even tops out a literal hex toss distance from the summit of the Middle Teton.
The route gets icier (and better) later in the season.
2-6 pitches. Depending on how you choose to run the pitches, this could go in as little as 2 with a lot of simul-climbing. (We did it in 3 with a big simul in the middle for pitch 2.)
The route apparently has the nickname "Harry's Highway". (Curious as to where that came from if anyone knows.)
Descend the Southwest Couloir via Class 3.
The route gets icier (and better) later in the season.
2-6 pitches. Depending on how you choose to run the pitches, this could go in as little as 2 with a lot of simul-climbing. (We did it in 3 with a big simul in the middle for pitch 2.)
The route apparently has the nickname "Harry's Highway". (Curious as to where that came from if anyone knows.)
Descend the Southwest Couloir via Class 3.
Location
From the Lower Saddle between the Middle and the Grand hike up toward the north ridge. Two large towers will need to be scrambled around to reach a notch before the main wall of the Middle Teton. Pass the first, Pinocchio Pinnacle, on the west. Pass the second higher one, Bonneys Pinnacle, on the east. From the notch, climb up and traversing right on moderate loose rock ledges to reach the start of the ice/snow couloir. (Note that the couloir itself drops out below you here for thousands of feet.)
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