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Routes in Middle Teton

Buckingham (SE) Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chouinard Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Dike Pinnacle North Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dike route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ellingwood Couloir T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Steep Snow
Middle Finger, Northwall, Inge's T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c WI1 A1
Middle Teton Glacier Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Mod. Snow
North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Northwest Ice Couloir T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2-3
Southwest Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1000 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: June 16, 1961. Peter Lev and James Greig.
Page Views: 6,184 total, 70/month
Shared By: Frosty Weller on Aug 31, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

The Northwest Ice Couloir is a great alpine outing that involves moderate rock, snow and ice climbing in an outrageous setting. It even tops out a literal hex toss distance from the summit of the Middle Teton.

The route gets icier (and better) later in the season.

2-6 pitches. Depending on how you choose to run the pitches, this could go in as little as 2 with a lot of simul-climbing. (We did it in 3 with a big simul in the middle for pitch 2.)

The route apparently has the nickname "Harry's Highway". (Curious as to where that came from if anyone knows.)

Descend the Southwest Couloir via Class 3.

Location

From the Lower Saddle between the Middle and the Grand hike up toward the north ridge. Two large towers will need to be scrambled around to reach a notch before the main wall of the Middle Teton. Pass the first, Pinocchio Pinnacle, on the west. Pass the second higher one, Bonney’s Pinnacle, on the east. From the notch, climb up and traversing right on moderate loose rock ledges to reach the start of the ice/snow couloir. (Note that the couloir itself drops out below you here for thousands of feet.)

Protection

Crampons, ice axes, small rock rack and 2-6 screws depending on ice conditions and comfort level. Pickets in snowier conditions may be desired. (We climbed it in late August, lots of ice, used 3 screws.)
Mike-Mayhem
Bozeman. MT
Mike-Mayhem   Bozeman. MT
Descend the North Ridge of the Middle Teton if camping at the upper saddle! Don't let other users scare you out of not doing this option. My partner and I rapped about 3 times and down climbed the rest, we got down in less than 2 hours Sep 13, 2017
RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
RKM   Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
In answer to the route submitter's question about this climb being referred to as 'Harry's Highway', it is because 38 year old Harry Frishman, an Exum Guide, fell (and died) from just a few feet from the top in January, 1981. Jul 16, 2016