Type: Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade II
FA: Sterling Hendricks and Paul Bradt August 4th, 1944
Page Views: 6,078 total · 80/month
Shared By: RKM on Dec 5, 2013
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


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Description

The obvious route while approaching the Lower Saddle. Climb the left side of the upper tongue, avoiding the huge crevasse that opens up mid to late season. At the col between Dike Pinnacle and the main summit, the snow/ice usually ends, turn right and rock climb to the top.

Location

This route will vary from year to year and times of the year.

Descend the Southwest Couloir - thereby making a complete traverse of the Middle Teton.

Protection

Depends on the time of year. Not much. You can make the rock climbing as easy or hard as you want.

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Photos

Looking down at Middle Teton from Grand Teton at sunrise
Looking down at Middle Teton from Grand Teton a…
 4
Middle from just above south fork.
Middle from just above south fork.
 1
Base of the glacier to the top of the couloir.
Base of the glacier to the top of the couloir.
 1
Just below the south summit block.
Just below the south summit block.
 1
Our route from the dike col to south summit.
Our route from the dike col to south summit.
 1
The Middle Teton Glacier route follows directly up to the crevasses, left of them and up the narrow, steeper tongue to the col. Typically rock climbing up the skyline to the summit.<br> <br> Picture borrowed from John Hegyes from the main Middle Teton page.
The Middle Teton Glacier route follows directly…
 1
Middle Teton Glacier, July 15, 2016
Middle Teton Glacier, July 15, 2016
 1
Rappel at south summit, two old pins & a tri-cam. Look over the north edge & you'll see it about 10 feet below.
Rappel at south summit, two old pins & a tri-ca…
 1
John Evans at the top of the glacier, heading for the couloir.
John Evans at the top of the glacier, heading f…
 1
Me at the top of the couloir.
Me at the top of the couloir.
 1
A different year with more ice and bigger crevasses.<br> <br> Picture taken from on top of the Friction Pitch - Exum Ridge.
A different year with more ice and bigger creva…
 1
Taken from the south summit looking down on dike col.
Taken from the south summit looking down on dik…
 1

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