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Routes in Middle Teton

Buckingham (SE) Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chouinard Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Mod. Snow
Dike Pinnacle North Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Mod. Snow
Dike route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow
Ellingwood Couloir T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Steep Snow
Middle Finger, Northwall, Inge's T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c WI1 A1
Middle Teton Glacier Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Mod. Snow
North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Northwest Ice Couloir T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2
South Chimney Finish of Southeast (Buckingham) Ridge of Middle Teton T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Mod. Snow PG13
Southwest Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
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Description

The Middle Teton is the 3rd highest peak in the Teton Range, and a familiar sight to all who climb the Grand Teton from Garnet Canyon. Although easier to climb than the Grand Teton, it sees far fewer ascents. One difficulty is that most routes on the Middle Teton are approached from the east up Garnet Canyon, so camp sites are by reservation and almost always full. One-day ascents are popular for this reason, although they involve 6000 feet of elevation gain.

Getting There

The standard approach begins as for the Grand Teton, from the Lupine Meadows parking lot.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Teton

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
 78
Southwest Couloir
Trad, Alpine
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Mod. Snow
 3
Chouinard Ridge
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2
 16
Northwest Ice Couloir
Trad, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 24
North Ridge
Trad, Alpine
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Mod. Snow
 14
Middle Teton Glacier Route
Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 10 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Steep Snow
 3
Ellingwood Couloir
Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow
 10
Dike route
Trad, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 11
Buckingham (SE) Ridge
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Mod. Snow
 3
Dike Pinnacle North Face
Trad, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Southwest Couloir
 78
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Trad, Alpine
Chouinard Ridge
 3
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Northwest Ice Couloir
 16
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2 Trad, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
North Ridge
 24
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine
Middle Teton Glacier Route
 14
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Mod. Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 10 pitches
Ellingwood Couloir
 3
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Steep Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Dike route
 10
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
Buckingham (SE) Ridge
 11
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
Dike Pinnacle North Face
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Middle Teton »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Does anyone know about approaching from the west in the winter? Nov 22, 2017

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