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Middle Teton Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Middle Teton

L › R R › L A › Z

	Beyer South Ridge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Bonney's Pinnacle - East Face & South Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
	Buckingham (SE) Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Chouinard Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow
	Dike Pinnacle North Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Mod. Snow
	Dike Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow
	Ellingwood Couloir T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Steep Snow
	Middle Finger, Northwall, Taylor, Inge's/Mega T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c WI1 A1
	Middle Teton Glacier Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Mod. Snow
	North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Northwest Ice Couloir T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2
	Pinocchio Pinnacle - East Face T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
	South Chimney Finish of Southeast (Buckingham) Ridge of Middle Teton T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Southwest Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow

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Elevation:	12,804 ft	3,903 m
GPS:	43.72992, -110.81132 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	89,177 total · 413/month
Shared By:	George Bell on Mar 19, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

The Middle Teton is the 3rd highest peak in the Teton Range, and a familiar sight to all who climb the Grand Teton from Garnet Canyon. Although easier to climb than the Grand Teton, it sees far fewer ascents. One difficulty is that most routes on the Middle Teton are approached from the east up Garnet Canyon, so camp sites are by reservation and almost always full. One-day ascents are popular for this reason, although they involve 6000 feet of elevation gain.

Getting There

The standard approach begins as for the Grand Teton, from the Lupine Meadows parking lot.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Teton

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow 138 ● Southwest Couloir Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow 7 ● Chouinard Ridge Trad, Snow, Alpine 7 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 64 ● North Ridge Trad, Alpine
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Mod. Snow 29 ● Middle Teton Glacier Route Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 10 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Steep Snow 4 ● Ellingwood Couloir Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2 35 ● Northwest Ice Couloir Trad, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow 16 ● Dike Route Trad, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 30 ● Buckingham (SE) Ridge Trad, Alpine 10 pitches