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Ellingwood Couloir

5.5 AI2 Steep Snow, Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), Grade II,  Avg: 3 from 4 votes
FA: Robert Ellingwood 1923
Wyoming > Grand Teton NP > Middle Teton

Description

The Ellingwood Couloir was the FA route for the Middle Teton. When in condition it makes for a good ski mountaineering line or steep snow climb. In the summer the couloir is laden with wet kitty litter slabs, and rock fall; this can make accessing the Buckingham Buttress a bit tricky.

From the TH to the summit is about 6,000ft, with 2,000ft of climbing. Take the south fork of Garnet Canyon to reach the south side of the Middle Teton. Ascend up the couloir with snow up to 45deg, you join the Middlle Glacier route and continue up steep snow and 5.5 rock. The easeast descent is the SW Couloir.

Protection

Light rock rack, crampons and a ice axe.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Near the Col on an early season ascent/descent of the Ellingwood Coulior. Out on the right, west facing, to avoid surface slab
[Hide Photo] Near the Col on an early season ascent/descent of the Ellingwood Coulior. Out on the right, west facing, to avoid surface slab
Ellingwood couloir
[Hide Photo] Ellingwood couloir
Climber approaching Ellingwood on his way to solo Chouinard Ridge 7-29-2017
[Hide Photo] Climber approaching Ellingwood on his way to solo Chouinard Ridge 7-29-2017
Looking up at the Ellingwood Couloir. The couloir tops out at the col, where it joins the Mddlle Glacier route. The big rock buttress on the left is the Buckingham Buttress.
[Hide Photo] Looking up at the Ellingwood Couloir. The couloir tops out at the col, where it joins the Mddlle Glacier route. The big rock buttress on the left is the Buckingham Buttress.