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Routes in Calabogie Bouldering

Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Ken Flagg
Page Views: 403 total, 9/month
Shared By: wkh on Jan 22, 2014
Admins: Dave Rone

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Stand start by carefully pulling onto the slab. Various beta exists to accomplish this, but common beta (and the style of the FA) uses a high right foot at the lip, high right hand on a sharp sidepull that can also be crimped to some degree, and low left hand against the slab to create some tension.
Once your left foot is established, follow the left-trending feature that can be used as a sidepull/undercling for the left hand and gain thin crimps for the right. Technical footwork will bring you to the top of a great slab.

Location

Located on the far right of the Nine-tenths boulder on the opposite side of Bullfighter's Friend. If you are following the trail from The Gateway the slab will be almost facing you as you approach Nine-Tenths.

Protection

pad, landing is decent

Photos

Colin R
Ottawa, ON
  V5+
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
  V5+
This thing is just nasty, thin and temperature dependent. I actually stuck the lip today and would have topped if it weren't for what happened next. As I started to pull over the lip I noticed it was quite slopey so I tried to top it beached whale style but there were pine needles, dirt and leaves everywhere so I started to slide to my right eventually going past my pads and then falling off completely - terrifying but the fall wound up being safe as I fell into a pile of soft pine needles.

: ) Jun 1, 2014