Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 114 total · 3/month
Shared By: wkh on Apr 8, 2015
Admins: Dave Rone

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Start on a prominent flake with many options for feet. Move straight up through a cluster of holds (including a pinch, crimps, and an undercling) avoiding the good holds further to the right. Aim for the jug directly above this cluster that seems so close, and yet...

The first three ascents of this problem were all done in very different styles, so play around with different beta on the various holds until something clicks for you. Surprisingly all versions feel about V5.

Since the first few ascents one or two footholds have broken/crumbled making this problem more challenging. I've tried two of the three betas I know of and both were somewhat harder, I'm assuming the undercling beta (used for the FA) is similarly changed.

Location

Starts on the prominent flake to the left of Westward Ho! on the West Nile Boulder.
As this problem is on the swamp facing side of the boulder it may be largely inaccessible once the snow melts and the water level rises.

Protection

A pad or two, the landing is somewhat uneven.

Photos

Colin R
Ottawa, ON
  V5
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
  V5
Couple things...

First - how is this a V4? I understand grades are meant to be stiff at Calabogie but calling this V4 is quite silly. Even compared to other V4's at Calabogie its quite a bit harder.

Second - The hand hold out right is not off route. I spoke to Jason about this and he said its fair game as they are quite hard to reach although he seemed somewhat hesitant at first to say this. I used this hold and would call it V5 even with that variation.

I think highly of Calabogie bouldering but the sandbagging needs to be reigned in a bit TBH. We are not trying to invent our own grading system and it should be open to feedback from other climbers. Dec 4, 2016
wkh
  V5
wkh  
  V5
Thanks for bringing this up, a couple feet have crumbled since the FA making things a bit more challenging and I just hadn't updated the page. Certainly not V4 now, honestly I wouldn't be offended with V5-6.

As for the 'off limits' hold, I think the idea was to encourage people to go direct, instead of traversing right to the good holds and feet and so to the jug, completely avoiding the challenging cluster of holds. Also to differentiate between this problem and one which starts down and to the right (Passover V3). Of course this is a contrivance and you are free to do what you like.

I agree that feedback on Bogie bouldering from all climbers is great (I wish the mtn project page was visited more often), and that's why I wanted to add some problems here where changes and updates can be discussed more often than is practical for a 'hard copy' guide. Jan 13, 2017
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
  V5
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
  V5
Makes sense.

I think the straight up version is probably V6 (arguably an eliminate but worth doing) and the hand out right version is V5 (what I did).

Just my two cents.

Cheers...

: ) Jan 27, 2017