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Routes in Calabogie Bouldering

Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Jody Miall (the full West Nile line)
Page Views: 187 total, 4/month
Shared By: wkh on Jan 22, 2014
Admins: Dave Rone

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Description

Direct start to the longer West Nile V7ish. SDS matched on a sloping edge underneath the roof. Some start with feet deeper under the short roof, but a more interesting beta involves facing feet outwards and lifting off the ground using a toe hook on a triangular ledge at the lip. Bring hands to feet and continue upwards along the slopey corner and top out.

The full line starting at the far right of the roof section near Malaria traverses along ledges to link up with West Nile Direct. The grade is unconfirmed as far as I know, and beta is unclear at this point.

Location

On the far left end of the Malaria Boulder just before the Westward Ho! face. The starting holds (especially the ledge at the lip) should be visible from the clearing which is home to the Highball and Malaria Boulders. Beautiful Odyssey is on the opposite side of this boulder and Malaria is to the right of this problem.

Protection

Crash pads under the roof to protect your tailbone from some rock.

Photos

Mriss
 
Mriss  
 
Toe hook start proves much easier for short, flexible persons. Also, shoes make a difference on this one- easier for non-lace ups in my experience.

Beta: youtube.com/watch?v=sGJEvQM… May 15, 2014