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Routes in Calabogie Bouldering

Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 325 total, 6/month
Shared By: Colin R on Sep 14, 2013
Admins: Dave Rone

You & This Route


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Description

Start low under a small cave with right hand at the lip (low start is V5). Once you hit the rail you have to match and move out left for the pumpy and awkward lip traverse for which there is multiple beta. Some people try to heel hook and work their way out the lip before the awkward mantle. I campused through this section as my heel felt insecure but either way its hard.

We need some pics of this....

Location

Near the pond, obvious roof problem starting low.

Protection

Make sure you get a pad low to protect your back from the sharp slab on the opening move.

Photos

Colin R
Ottawa, ON
 
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
 
Switching this to V4 and adding "Malaria Low" as V5 Nov 14, 2014
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
 
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
 
Thanks for the info. Yeah I didn't catch that description in the guidebook but rather did the low start. It was one of those keep-your-butt-off-the-ground moves that would probably be easier if the ground wasn't there. Jun 2, 2014
wkh
  V4
wkh  
  V4
I think part of the disparity in grading has to do with the starting position, the low start on the prominent edge is far more awkward than starting one hand in the higher pocket/jug then moving to the lip (as per the guide description). In any case the big move at the end feels hard if you spend too long moving across the lip and get pumped. I flashed it a while back but have had trouble repeating, it is definitely solid! Jun 2, 2014
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
 
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
 
I downrated it to V4/5 but I am not going any lower. I think its silly to say this is anything other than a full grade harder than Bullfighter which is currently V3/4.. Jun 1, 2014
Mriss
  V4
Mriss  
  V4
Heel hooks are the key! Kinda pumpy near the end/switching heel to left side. May 15, 2014
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
 
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
 
Also, for what it's worth the climbers I was with that day who all sent Malaria were Jeff and Ryan K. from Coyote's as well as JM from Altitude and myself. If you are going to keep this as V4 you need to downrate a bunch of other stuff too like Bullfighter. The consensus among all of us was that it is underrated at V4. Again, you're welcome to your opinion but I don't generally uprate things unless its really warranted. Apr 5, 2014
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
 
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
 
Just have a look "The Bullfighter's Friend" which is a nearby problem rated V4:

www.mountainproject.com/v/108601757

Malaria is obviously steeper, has a harder start, uses crappier holds and has a more awkward topout = V5...

But you're free to make up your own mind.

Really nice problem regardless. Apr 3, 2014
Jeremy Penman  
  V4
solid v4 Apr 3, 2014
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
 
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
 
Original grade by the first ascenionist was V4 however I did it with three other strong climbers and the consensus was V5 at a minimum (possibly even harder). Normally I avoid uprating something put up by someone else but V4 climbers will likely be shut down completely on this. Sep 14, 2013