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Elevation: 1,229 ft 375 m
GPS: 48.25221, -83.64592
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Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 19, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Dave Rone

Description Suggest change

It would appear at first glance that Ontario lost in the glaciation lottery. Somehow nearby Quebec and New York State were spared total bulldozing, but Ontario really got it in the last however number of ice ages.

Despite that, there is some fine climbing to be had in Ontario, even some great climbing. The local communities are large and strong.

In southern Ontario, the limestone and dolostone of the 700km long Niagara Escarpment, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, provides fifty or more crags from Niagara Falls up to Tobermory on the Bruce Pennisula. Recent decades have added a number of high quality sport crags to the trad areas established in the sixties. Lion's Head is a true gem of an area; pictures from there look like Thailand.

Further north and also to the east, the granite and quartzite of the Canadian Shield formation provide some excellent trad cragging and multi-pitch routes.

The relatively long winters have pushed people to hunt out every ice smear around, and if you're up to winter camping and lots of tromping across frozen lakes and in the bush, there's solid ice climbing to be had.

In the more populated areas of Ontario, especially southern and south-western Ontario (within a few hours drive of Toronto) access is often complicated, with many cliffs closed to climbing. The Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC) monitors this, and negotiates for access to cliffs, or to avoid closures. They maintain a crag status list at: ontarioallianceofclimbers.c…

The Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry also maintains an online crown land use policy atlas. This can often be used to determine the ownership status of the land on which a cliff is located in Ontario. It can be found at: giscoeapp.lrc.gov.on.ca/web…

Getting There Suggest change

The southern parts of the Niagara Escarpment are easily accessible from Toronto, Buffalo or Detroit. For most other areas you're looking at a lot of driving.

2,448 Total Climbs

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Location: Ontario Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Ontario

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI2+
 19
Tempest
Ice
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 24
Front of the Pinnacle
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 29
The Camel
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 27
Kiss of the Spider Woman
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 40
Bolero
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 23
Exposure Plus
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 32
Maneline
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 27
Dancing With the Stars
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 23
Hiromi's Route
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 21
American Bucks
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 19
I Owe a Lot of Money to a Man Na…
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 26
Swan Song
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 22
Red Line Fever
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 16
So! You Think You Know Good Kung…
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 13
The Fin
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tempest Ontario Ice & M… > … > Orient Bay Ice… > 5. Cascade Falls/Obse…
 19
WI2+ Ice
Front of the Pinnacle Ontario S Bould… > Bon Echo
 24
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
The Camel Ontario S Bould… > … > Mt Nemo > Q. Camel Wall
 29
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Kiss of the Spider Woman Ontario S Bould… > Lion's Head > American Bucks / Spid…
 27
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Bolero Ontario S Bould… > … > Mt Nemo > K. Dance Wall
 40
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Exposure Plus Ontario S Bould… > … > Rattlesnake Point > Rattlesnake Point E C…
 23
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Maneline Ontario S Bould… > Lion's Head > Maneline Wall
 32
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Dancing With the Stars Ontario S Bould… > Swamp > Yellow Card Wall
 27
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Hiromi's Route Ontario S Bould… > … > Mt Nemo > J. The Castle
 23
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
American Bucks Ontario S Bould… > Lion's Head > American Bucks / Spid…
 21
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
I Owe a Lot of Money to a M… Ontario S Bould… > … > Mt Nemo > H. Iguana Wall
 19
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Swan Song Ontario S Bould… > … > Mt Nemo > O. The Cat's Tail
 26
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Red Line Fever Ontario S Bould… > … > Mt Nemo > R. The Big Gulp
 22
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
So! You Think You Know Good… Ontario S Bould… > Lion's Head > Lady Slipper Wall
 16
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
The Fin Ontario S Bould… > Lion's Head > Fin Wall
 13
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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