Elevation: 1,229 ft
GPS: 48.25221, -83.64593
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Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 19, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Dave Rone

Description

It would appear at first glance that Ontario lost in the glaciation lottery. Somehow nearby Quebec and New York State were spared total bulldozing, but Ontario really got it in the last however number of ice ages.

Despite that, there is some fine climbing to be had in Ontario, even some great climbing. The local communities are large and strong.

In southern Ontario, the limestone and dolostone of the 700km long Niagara Escarpment, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, provides fifty or more crags from Niagara Falls up to Tobermory on the Bruce Pennisula. Recent decades have added a number of high quality sport crags to the trad areas established in the sixties. Lion's Head is a true gem of an area; pictures from there look like Thailand.

Further north and also to the east, the granite and quartzite of the Canadian Shield formation provide some excellent trad cragging and multi-pitch routes.

The relatively long winters have pushed people to hunt out every ice smear around, and if you're up to winter camping and lots of tromping across frozen lakes and in the bush, there's solid ice climbing to be had.

In the more populated areas of Ontario, especially southern and south-western Ontario (within a few hours drive of Toronto) access is often complicated, with many cliffs closed to climbing. The Ontario Access Coalition (OAC) monitors this, and negotiates for access to cliffs, or to avoid closures. They maintain a crag status list at: ontarioaccesscoalition.com/…

The Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry also maintains an online crown land use policy atlas. This can often be used to determine the ownership status of the land on which a cliff is located in Ontario. It can be found at: giscoeapp.lrc.gov.on.ca/web…

Getting There

The southern parts of the Niagara Escarpment are easily accessible from Toronto, Buffalo or Detroit. For most other areas you're looking at a lot of driving.

2,276 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ontario

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI4
 9
Obsession
Ice 2 pitches
WI2+
 18
Tempest
Ice
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 22
Front of the Pinnacle
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 22
The Camel
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Nutcracker
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 24
Kiss of the Spider Woman
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 32
Bolero
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 30
Maneline
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 19
Hiromi's Route
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 20
American Bucks
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 17
Swan Song
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 17
Elephant Ivory
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
The Seventh Origin of Alfred
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 16
So! You Think You Know Good Kung…
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 12
The Fin
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Obsession Ontario Ice & M… > … > Orient Bay Ice… > 5. Cascade Falls/Obse…
 9
WI4 Ice 2 pitches
Tempest Ontario Ice & M… > … > Orient Bay Ice… > 5. Cascade Falls/Obse…
 18
WI2+ Ice
Front of the Pinnacle Ontario S Bould… > Bon Echo
 22
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
The Camel Ontario S Bould… > … > Mt Nemo > Camel Wall
 22
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Nutcracker Ontario S Bould… > Devil's Glen > Blank Canvas
 11
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Kiss of the Spider Woman Ontario S Bould… > Lion's Head > American Bucks / Spid…
 24
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Bolero Ontario S Bould… > … > Mt Nemo > Central Zone
 32
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Maneline Ontario S Bould… > Lion's Head > Maneline Wall
 30
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Hiromi's Route Ontario S Bould… > … > Mt Nemo > Castle
 19
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
American Bucks Ontario S Bould… > Lion's Head > American Bucks / Spid…
 20
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Swan Song Ontario S Bould… > … > Mt Nemo > Cat's Tail
 17
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Elephant Ivory Ontario S Bould… > Devil's Glen > Slippery People Area
 17
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Seventh Origin of Alfred Ontario S Bould… > … > Mt Nemo > Alfred's Wall
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
So! You Think You Know Good… Ontario S Bould… > Lion's Head > Lady Slipper Wall
 16
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
The Fin Ontario S Bould… > Lion's Head > Fin Wall
 12
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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