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Areas in Lion's Head

American Bucks / Spider Woman Wall 2 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
B-52 Overhang Area 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 2
Banshee Area 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Crescent Moon / Lord of the Flies Wall 1 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Cumulus Wall 1 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Fin Wall, The 3 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Headspace Wall 3 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Lady Slipper Wall 2 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Latvian Boulder 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Latvian Ledge Area 2 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Life's a Beach Boulder 0 / 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Lost at Sea Wall 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Maneline Wall 1 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Melon Ledge Area 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Merchants and Thieves Wall 2 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Monster Ledge, The 6 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Mr. Bojangles Wall 2 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Nimbus Wall 5 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 14
North Shore Area 5 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Pigroast Wall 0 / 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Scalphunter / Stinger Descent Area 1 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Storm Warning Area / Tricks Are for Kids Ledge 4 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Swept Away Wall 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Titan Wall 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13

Description

Lion's Head is an outstanding limestone sport climbing destination located in the Bruce Peninsula of Ontario on the Georgian Bay. Climbing at Lion's Head is more involved than typical sport cragging. Routes are often accessed by rappelling in and climbing out. Many of the routes that historically involved hanging belays have now been extended to the ground. There is also a trail at the base of the cliff from which most of the areas can be accessed. A 4th class gulley toward the east end of the cliff provides access to the base of the cliff without rappelling in. Lion's Head is located across the bay from White Bluff.

Getting There

From the town of Lion's Head, Ontario, head east on Moore St and park at the Bruce Trail parking area. At the end of Moore St there is a paved turnaround area with no parking signs; do not park here. If you park somewhere on Moore St, park on the opposite side from the cottages and be quiet and respectful. From the Bruce Trail parking area, walk east on Moore St about 1500 feet to a dirt road on the right with a gate. Follow the road/trail with blue markers (painted on the trees) for about a half mile. As the dirt road turns right (south), the blue marked trail will head left (north); follow the trail and it will bring you to the edge of the cliff which is the top of Lion's Head. This approach will bring you to the top of the Headspace Wall. An alternative approach heads south out the back of the parking area and loops around, eventually meeting up with the above approach. This approach is quite a bit longer but might be more scenic. See the beta photos on this page for maps of the approach.

217 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lion's Head

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos

Lost wedding band and engagement ring at Lions Head Look Out while rock climbing around Latvian Ledge. please message if you have found these our missing wedding rings! Thank you very very much! email me at myraann@umich.edu Sep 5, 2017

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