Elevation: 628 ft
GPS: 45, -81.234 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 197,919 total · 2,046/month
Shared By: Matt Looby on Jun 9, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Dave Rone
Access Issue: From the OAC website, climbing at Lion's Head is "Tolerated: Climbing access not formally permitted, but informally accepted. Tread lightly." Details

Description

Please read the Access Issue note above regarding climbing at Lion's Head. 

Lion's Head is an outstanding limestone sport climbing destination located in the Bruce Peninsula of Ontario on the Georgian Bay. Lion's Head is not a beginner crag and climbing there is more involved than typical sport cragging. Accessing Lion's Head requires technical skills not typically gained from a lead lesson in a climbing gym. Routes are often accessed by rappelling in and climbing out. However, many of the routes that historically involved hanging belays have now been extended to the ground. There is also a trail at the base of the cliff from which most of the areas can be accessed. A 4th / 5th class gulley toward the northeast end of the cliff (hiker's right from above or climber's left from below) provides access to the base of the cliff. Lion's Head is located across the bay from White Bluff.

*** Latvian Ledge Update ***
Please be advised as of June 9, 2020, the Ontario Alliance of Climbers has issued the following access update: OAC Access Update 6/9/20
"The OAC has been informed of the temporary removal of all moderate Latvian Ledge routes for the purposes of rehabilitation. These routes represent the bulk of moderate routes at Lions Head. Please ensure your plans do not require these routes to be available, and remember that top roping [from trees] at Lions Head is not permitted."

To keep updated on Ontario rock climbing - please check their website at the OAC Website. 

https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/crag-status/lions-head/

Getting There

From the town of Lion's Head, Ontario, head east on Moore St and park at the designated Bruce Trail parking area. At the end of Moore St there is a paved turnaround area with no parking signs; do not park here. Do not park on the side of Moore St opposite the cottages (parking and access trail closed as of 2020). From the Bruce trail parking area, follow the main trail (white blazes) until you reach the clifftop. This approach will bring you to the top of the Headspace Wall. 

Guidebook

A modern and comprehensive guidebook was published in 2016 and can be purchased at the following links.
Canada: ontariorockclimbing.com/pro…
USA: ​Ontario Rock Climbing on Amazon​​​

There is a free guidebook available online from Greg Williamson and Selene Ma.
https://gripped.com/news/the-new-must-have-online-lions-head-guidebook/
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B923o1Bm87C-TWpBdHBlVmV6eGc/edit?pli=1

221 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lion's Head

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 24
Kiss of the Spider Woman
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 29
Skunks Do it in Tevas
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 30
Maneline
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 23
Lady Slipper
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 20
American Bucks
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Cumulus
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 11
Man Overboard
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 10
The Honey Badger
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 16
So! You Think You Know Good Kung…
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
I Wonder Where the Lions Are
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
I Wonder Where the Hanging Belay…
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 12
The Fin
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
Stratus Fear
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 6
Coeur de Lion
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
Flying Squirrel
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Kiss of the Spider Woman American Bucks / Spid…
 24
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Skunks Do it in Tevas Lady Slipper Wall
 29
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Maneline Maneline Wall
 30
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Lady Slipper Lady Slipper Wall
 23
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
American Bucks American Bucks / Spid…
 20
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Cumulus Cumulus Wall
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Man Overboard Lady Slipper Wall
 11
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Honey Badger Lady Slipper Wall
 10
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
So! You Think You Know Good… Lady Slipper Wall
 16
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
I Wonder Where the Lions Are Lost at Sea Wall
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
I Wonder Where the Hanging… Lost at Sea Wall
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
The Fin Fin Wall
 12
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Stratus Fear Nimbus Wall
 3
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad
Coeur de Lion Lost at Sea Wall
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Flying Squirrel Crescent Moon / Lord…
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
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