Elevation: 700 ft
GPS: 45, -81.234 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 149,851 total · 1,868/month
Shared By: Matt Looby on Jun 9, 2014
Admins: Dave Rone

Description

Lion's Head is an outstanding limestone sport climbing destination located in the Bruce Peninsula of Ontario on the Georgian Bay. Climbing at Lion's Head is more involved than typical sport cragging. Routes are often accessed by rappelling in and climbing out. However, many of the routes that historically involved hanging belays have now been extended to the ground. There is also a trail at the base of the cliff from which most of the areas can be accessed. A 4th class gulley toward the northeast end of the cliff (hiker's right from above or climber's left from below) provides access to the base of the cliff without rappelling in. Lion's Head is located across the bay from White Bluff.

*** Latvian Ledge Update ***
Please be advised as of June 9, 2020, the Ontario Alliance of Climbers has issued the following access update: OAC Access Update 6/9/20
"The OAC has been informed of the temporary removal of all moderate Latvian Ledge routes for the purposes of rehabilitation. These routes represent the bulk of moderate routes at Lions Head. Please ensure your plans do not require these routes to be available, and remember that top roping [from trees] at Lions Head is not permitted."

To keep updated on Ontario rock climbing - please check their website at the OAC Website. 

Getting There

From the town of Lion's Head, Ontario, head east on Moore St and park at the Bruce Trail parking area. At the end of Moore St there is a paved turnaround area with no parking signs; do not park here. If you park somewhere on Moore St, park on the opposite side from the cottages and be quiet and respectful. From the Bruce Trail parking area, walk east on Moore St about 1500 feet to a dirt road on the right with a gate. Follow the road/trail with blue markers (painted on the trees) for about a half mile. As the dirt road turns right (south), the blue marked trail will head left (north); follow the trail and it will bring you to the edge of the cliff which is the top of Lion's Head. This approach will bring you to the top of the Headspace Wall. An alternative approach heads south out the back of the parking area and loops around, eventually meeting up with the above approach. This approach is quite a bit longer but might be more scenic. See the beta photos on this page for maps of the approach.

Guidebook

A modern and comprehensive guidebook was published in 2016 and can be purchased at the following links.
Canada: ontariorockclimbing.com/pro…
USA: ​Ontario Rock Climbing on Amazon​​​

There is a free guidebook available online from Greg Williamson and Selene Ma.
https://gripped.com/news/the-new-must-have-online-lions-head-guidebook/
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B923o1Bm87C-TWpBdHBlVmV6eGc/edit?pli=1

221 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lion's Head

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 27
Skunks Do it in Tevas
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 24
Kiss of the Spider Woman
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 29
Maneline
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 21
Lady Slipper
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 18
American Bucks
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
The Roaming Gypsies
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Cumulus
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 9
The Honey Badger
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 13
So! You Think You Know Good Kung…
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
I Wonder Where the Lions Are
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 8
The Fin
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
Stratus Fear
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 6
Coeur de Lion
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 3
Flying Squirrel
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 3
Above the Clouds
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Skunks Do it in Tevas Lady Slipper Wall
 27
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Kiss of the Spider Woman American Bucks / Spid…
 24
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Maneline Maneline Wall
 29
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Lady Slipper Lady Slipper Wall
 21
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
American Bucks American Bucks / Spid…
 18
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Roaming Gypsies Nimbus Wall
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Cumulus Cumulus Wall
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Honey Badger Lady Slipper Wall
 9
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
So! You Think You Know Good… Lady Slipper Wall
 13
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
I Wonder Where the Lions Are Lost at Sea Wall
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Fin Fin Wall
 8
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Stratus Fear Nimbus Wall
 3
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad
Coeur de Lion Lost at Sea Wall
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Flying Squirrel Crescent Moon / Lord…
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Above the Clouds Nimbus Wall
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Lion's Head »

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