Elevation: 700 ft
GPS: 45, -81.234 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Matt Looby on Jun 9, 2014
Admins: Dave Rone
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Friday
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Description

Lion's Head is an outstanding limestone sport climbing destination located in the Bruce Peninsula of Ontario on the Georgian Bay. Climbing at Lion's Head is more involved than typical sport cragging. Routes are often accessed by rappelling in and climbing out. Many of the routes that historically involved hanging belays have now been extended to the ground. There is also a trail at the base of the cliff from which most of the areas can be accessed. A 4th class gulley toward the east end of the cliff provides access to the base of the cliff without rappelling in. Lion's Head is located across the bay from White Bluff.

Getting There

From the town of Lion's Head, Ontario, head east on Moore St and park at the Bruce Trail parking area. At the end of Moore St there is a paved turnaround area with no parking signs; do not park here. If you park somewhere on Moore St, park on the opposite side from the cottages and be quiet and respectful. From the Bruce Trail parking area, walk east on Moore St about 1500 feet to a dirt road on the right with a gate. Follow the road/trail with blue markers (painted on the trees) for about a half mile. As the dirt road turns right (south), the blue marked trail will head left (north); follow the trail and it will bring you to the edge of the cliff which is the top of Lion's Head. This approach will bring you to the top of the Headspace Wall. An alternative approach heads south out the back of the parking area and loops around, eventually meeting up with the above approach. This approach is quite a bit longer but might be more scenic. See the beta photos on this page for maps of the approach.

218 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lion's Head

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
Surf Zone
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 18
Plastic Victory
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Queue de Lion
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Kiss of the Spider Woman
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 9
Fleet Footed Rock Moose
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 15
Anarchy in High Heels
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Maneline
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Nimbus
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
Lady Slipper
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
American Bucks
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
The Roaming Gypsies
Sport 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 10
So! You Think You Know Good Kung…
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
I Wonder Where the Lions Are
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
The Fin
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 3
Coeur de Lion
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Surf Zone Latvian Ledge Area
 17
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Plastic Victory Latvian Ledge Area
 18
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Queue de Lion Maneline Wall
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Kiss of the Spider Woman American Bucks / Spid…
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Fleet Footed Rock Moose Latvian Ledge Area
 9
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Anarchy in High Heels Latvian Ledge Area
 15
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Maneline Maneline Wall
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Nimbus Nimbus Wall
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Lady Slipper Lady Slipper Wall
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
American Bucks American Bucks / Spid…
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Roaming Gypsies Nimbus Wall
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
So! You Think You Know Good… Lady Slipper Wall
 10
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
I Wonder Where the Lions Are Lost at Sea Wall
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Fin Fin Wall
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Coeur de Lion Lost at Sea Wall
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lion's Head »

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Photos

Lost wedding band and engagement ring at Lions Head Look Out while rock climbing around Latvian Ledge. please message if you have found these our missing wedding rings! Thank you very very much! email me at myraann@umich.edu Sep 5, 2017
Tino F  
I’m looking at LH for a two week trip this summer. We have a 2yo...are there crags with decent access from the base or are most rappels? Literature seems to say you can walk into a few spots, but I can’t tell.
Thanks! Tino Mar 26, 2018
Matt Looby
Cincinnati, OH
Matt Looby   Cincinnati, OH  
Hey Tino, there is a 4th class descent called the Stinger gulley. Someone has uploaded a picture of the start of this descent to this page. This descent has some fixed ropes and scrambling to get to the base of the cliff. I think it would be pretty hard to find without someone showing you where it is; your best bet would be to run into another climber when you get there. There is a trail at the base of the crag that more or less traverses the whole cliff and you can walk from crag to crag. Most of the routes have been extended to start from the ground. You could also rappel with your child in one of those backpacks with a seat. It is also possible to kayak or take a boat to arrive at the base of the cliff. Mar 26, 2018
Is there anywhere near Lion's Head to camp? Any kind of info on accommodations would be appreciated! May 9, 2018
Matt Looby
Cincinnati, OH
Matt Looby   Cincinnati, OH  
Hey Andrew, looks like I need to update the page with some information for camping. For now, find some information below.
The campground at the beach might be the most popular and closest, although it is expensive.
Lion's Head Beach Campground ($27.50/night): 1 Forbes St , Lion’s Head, N0H 1W0 (519) 793-3522
Hope Bay Campground ($35/night): 2 Hope Bay Rd, South Bruce Peninsula (519) 534-1208 or hopebaycampground.com/
Lakeside Rainbow ($10/person): 199 Burma Road, R.R. #2, Lion’s Head 519-793-3414 or lakesidecampinc.com/
Bruce Peninsula National Park: Cyprus Lake Rd, Tobermory, ON 1-888-773-8888 orreservation.pc.gc.ca May 10, 2018
Raiden, thanks for the reply! A few other questions. Will a 60 meter rope work for most or all routes here? Also, are there rap rings on the top of routes or do people build their own anchors? Same for rapping into the belay areas (are there rap rings to use)? And from my understanding from the comment above the crags can be accessed from the gulley approach and then traverse from crag to crag once down there? May 18, 2018
Matt Looby
Cincinnati, OH
Matt Looby   Cincinnati, OH  
Hey Andrew,
A 60m rope will work for most of the routes there. Some areas (like the Titan area) and some routes require a 70m. Remember to tie knots at the end of your rope :).
There are rap rings for nearly all of the routes.
Yes, you can generally traverse from crag to crag after going down the gulley approach. Some areas might require a little scrambling but it's not too bad. Have fun. May 21, 2018
Raiden, thanks so much for listing the updated info on campgrounds in the area!! Jul 10, 2018
Angie A  
Hi, anyone know how bad are the mosquitoes right now? I've heard some complaints about mosquitoes in the campgrounds and lots of rain currently... planning on visiting mid-August. Also any reviews on Lakeside Rainbow campground appreciated.
Thank you in advance! Jul 28, 2018
First off, Greg Williamson did a great job with this guide book! For being a very complex area, this book gives us climbing a fighting chance to find what were looking for. I would like to add a small note regarding the guide book. The distance between areas and climbs are a lot closer then on my think. This was proven to me while I was wondering around the top of the cliff looking down. Its easy to loose distance and location while bushwhacking though the trees up top. Once I realized this, I was able to find things more smoothly. Also some of the blue paint described in the book is very faint...I would not rely on this to much. When using the guide book, I would suggest brining a pen to take personal notes and observations. If doing top-down maybe noting features in the lake or cliff line to help yourself in the future. I would like to add to Matt and Andrews comments above regarding the anchors. Yes, nearly all routes have rap rings but if you were to go top-down, you may need to rap off some trees in order to access the rap rings.

Thanks Greg for keeping this this book open-source! 3 days ago