Lion's Head Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 628 ft |
GPS: |
44.99971, -81.23381 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 221,272 total · 1,859/month |
Shared By: | Matt Looby on Jun 9, 2014 · Updates |
Admins: | Dave Rone |
Good mix of sport and trad, starting at higher grades mostly 5.10 and above. Some routes have anchors. Some routes start from ground, others from hanging belay. Approach is from top; rap in. Extremely complex the first visit."
Description
Please read the Access Issue note above regarding climbing at Lion's Head.
Lion's Head is an outstanding limestone sport climbing destination located in the Bruce Peninsula of Ontario on the Georgian Bay. Lion's Head is not a beginner crag and climbing there is more involved than typical sport cragging. Accessing Lion's Head requires technical skills not typically gained from a lead lesson in a climbing gym. Routes are often accessed by rappelling in and climbing out. However, many of the routes that historically involved hanging belays have now been extended to the ground. There is also a trail at the base of the cliff from which most of the areas can be accessed. A 4th / 5th class gulley toward the northeast end of the cliff (hiker's right from above or climber's left from below) provides access to the base of the cliff. Lion's Head is located across the bay from White Bluff.
*** Latvian Ledge Update ***
Please be advised as of June 9, 2020, the Ontario Alliance of Climbers has issued the following access update: OAC Access Update 6/9/20
"The OAC has been informed of the temporary removal of all moderate Latvian Ledge routes for the purposes of rehabilitation. These routes represent the bulk of moderate routes at Lions Head. Please ensure your plans do not require these routes to be available, and remember that top roping [from trees] at Lions Head is not permitted."
To keep updated on Ontario rock climbing - please check their website at the OAC Website.
https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/crag-status/lions-head/
Getting There
From the town of Lion's Head, Ontario, head east on Moore St and park at the designated Bruce Trail parking area. At the end of Moore St there is a paved turnaround area with no parking signs; do not park here. Do not park on the side of Moore St opposite the cottages (parking and access trail closed as of 2020). From the Bruce trail parking area, follow the main trail (white blazes) until you reach the clifftop. This approach will bring you to the top of the Headspace Wall.
Guidebook
Canada: ontariorockclimbing.com/pro…
USA: ​Ontario Rock Climbing on Amazon​​​
There is a free guidebook available online from Greg Williamson and Selene Ma.
https://gripped.com/news/the-new-must-have-online-lions-head-guidebook/
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B923o1Bm87C-TWpBdHBlVmV6eGc/edit?pli=1
Classic Climbing Routes at Lion's Head
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