White Bluff sits along the Georgian Bay of Lake Huron, just across from Lions Head. There are a mix of sport and trad lines with the majority of the routes being bolted. The routes tend to be steep but there are few routes that are mostly vertical to less than vertical. Even so most routes have at least one small roof on them. Most of the less steep routes are gear lines. Along the cobblestone beach there are a number of boulder problems, many of which define "pebble wrestling". This cliff gets morning sun and afternoon shade. Some areas are more filtered by trees than others. B-Movie Wall is a popular rainy day destination. The rock doesn't get wet from the rain but can seep/sweat when it is raining.
The highest concentration and the majority of routes are at B-Movie Wall. The rock at the B-Movie Wall looks like total choss but most lines are relatively stable. Be aware that holds do occasionally fall off. This is not the place to bring your barely climbing girlfriend. Except for one sparsely bolted and steep 5.8 the routes start at 5.11. The B-MW has 20 routes plus two extension routes that range from 11a to 12+.
Further down the wall is the Hippie Wall. This wall has a mix of steep and slabby routes all of which are 5.12 and up.
Past the Hippie Wall the routes don't get done very often. There are only a few sport routes and the rest are gear lines. However many people take the walk way down to gawk at The Monument. Past the Hippie Wall watch out for snakes. They are rather rare so don't disturb or harm them. Even though they can, they would rather not harm you.
While there is a huge amount of virgin rock at WB it is asked by the land managers that no new routes be put up at this time.
From the town of Lions Head go north on Bruce Rd. 9. After leaving town you will pass through a residential area and see WB across the water on the right. Follow the 9 past a left curve and Whippoorwill Rd. to another sharp turn to the right. Just past the sharp right turn will be a Bruce Trail parking area or the right side of the road. Park here leaving room for all the hikers and climbers who use this lot. It can get amazingly full. DO NOT park anywhere along Whippoorwill Rd.
From the lot you can take the trail (nicer) or go back to the road(slightly faster)and walk back to Whippoorwill Rd. Follow Whippoorwill Rd to its end. When the road turns into a driveway duck right and walk down along the fence line to the beach. At the beach head left along the cobblestone beach toward the big boulders. Just before the big boulders there is a well hidden trail that heads straight up to the B-Movie Wall. Depending on how fast or slow you walk expect 15-30 min to get from the lot to the B-MW.
The route EVERYONE wants to do, but it rarely gets done. This nearly horizontal 30 foot roof is massive and split by a fist/hand crack that pinches to fingers just before the lip.Climb the chossy looking face until it is possible to start using the crack. The rock is more solid than it looks, but use caution.Climb the easy, slightly overhanging crack up to the roof then take a deep breath before leaning back and seeing how far away the lip looks. After choking back down the vomit, fight the pump...[more]Browse More Classics in International