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White Bluff sits along the Georgian Bay of Lake Huron, just across from Lions Head. There are a mix of sport and trad lines with the majority of the routes being bolted. The routes tend to be steep but there are few routes that are mostly vertical to less than vertical. Even so most routes have at least one small roof on them. Most of the less steep routes are gear lines. Along the cobblestone beach there are a number of boulder problems, many of which define "pebble wrestling". This cliff gets morning sun and afternoon shade. Some areas are more filtered by trees than others. B-Movie Wall is a popular rainy day destination. The rock doesn't get wet from the rain but can seep/sweat when it is raining.
From the town of Lions Head go north on Bruce Rd. 9. After leaving town you will pass through a residential area and see WB across the water on the right. Follow the 9 past a left curve and Whippoorwill Rd. to another sharp turn to the right. Just past the sharp right turn will be a Bruce Trail parking area or the right side of the road. Park here leaving room for all the hikers and climbers who use this lot. It can get amazingly full. DO NOT park anywhere along Whippoorwill Rd.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for White Bluff:
Featured Route For White Bluff
The Monument 5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b North America : Canada : ... : Past the Hippie Wall
The route EVERYONE wants to do, but it rarely gets done. This nearly horizontal 30 foot roof is massive and split by a fist/hand crack that pinches to fingers just before the lip.Climb the chossy looking face until it is possible to start using the crack. The rock is more solid than it looks, but use caution.Climb the easy, slightly overhanging crack up to the roof then take a deep breath before leaning back and seeing how far away the lip looks. After choking back down the vomit, fight the pump...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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