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American Bucks / Spider Woman Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in American Bucks / Spider Woman Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	American Bucks S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Ascent to Olympus S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Curses from the Underworld T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Dandy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Global Warming T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Kiss of the Spider Woman S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	White Fang S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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Elevation:	705 ft	215 m
GPS:	45.00472, -81.22753 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	10,654 total · 76/month
Shared By:	Matt Looby on Jun 10, 2014
Admins:	Dave Rone, Scott Graham Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: From the OAC website, climbing at Lion's Head is "Tolerated: Climbing access not formally permitted, but informally accepted. Tread lightly." Details

From the OAC website, climbing at Lion's Head is "Tolerated as a non-conforming use of the park. Highly sensitive area. Strive for minimal impact and low profile. All fixed protection to be camouflaged. Do not disturb the cottagers. Approach via Bruce Trail entrance.
Good mix of sport and trad, starting at higher grades mostly 5.10 and above. Some routes have anchors. Some routes start from ground, others from hanging belay. Approach is from top; rap in. Extremely complex the first visit."

Description

This is a nice wall containing several classic moderate sport routes. All routes have a hanging belay.

Getting There

Approximately 200 feet past (east) of the Cumulus lookout there is a trail with a box that says "leave a message"; take this path to the cliff which is the top of American Bucks. Locate the other climbs from here. Dandy has a blue painted "D" at the top of the climb and Kiss of the Spider Woman has "KS" painted at the top.