PRINT: Rock Climbing in American Bucks / Spider Woman Wall, Ontario

American Bucks / Spider Woman Wall

International > N America > Canada > Ontario > Ontario S Bould… > Lion's Head

Access Issue: From the OAC website, climbing at Lion's Head is "Tolerated: Climbing access not formally permitted, but informally accepted. Tread lightly." Details

From the OAC website, climbing at Lion's Head is "Tolerated as a non-conforming use of the park. Highly sensitive area. Strive for minimal impact and low profile. All fixed protection to be camouflaged. Do not disturb the cottagers. Approach via Bruce Trail entrance.
Good mix of sport and trad, starting at higher grades mostly 5.10 and above. Some routes have anchors. Some routes start from ground, others from hanging belay. Approach is from top; rap in. Extremely complex the first visit."

Description

This is a nice wall containing several classic moderate sport routes. All routes have a hanging belay.

Getting There

Approximately 200 feet past (east) of the Cumulus lookout there is a trail with a box that says "leave a message"; take this path to the cliff which is the top of American Bucks. Locate the other climbs from here. Dandy has a blue painted "D" at the top of the climb and Kiss of the Spider Woman has "KS" painted at the top.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 1 ● Curses from the Underworld Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 3 ● Ascent to Olympus Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 22 ● American Bucks Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 1 ● Global Warming Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 3 ● Dandy Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 30 ● Kiss of the Spider Woman Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 2 ● White Fang Sport

● Curses from the Underworld

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad

● Ascent to Olympus

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport

● American Bucks

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport

● Global Warming

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad

● Dandy

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport

● Kiss of the Spider Woman

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport

● White Fang

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Brandon starting nearing the third bolt on American Bucks.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brennan VanDyke
Rogers, AR

Note that when finding these climbs, there is no longer either any "message box" marking any trail, nor any painted blue markers at the tops of these routes. Jun 10, 2024