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Mr. Bojangles Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Mr. Bojangles Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	30 years in the making S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Fancy Dancer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Forgotten Dreams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Mr. Bojangles S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	North Country Club Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Northern Delights S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	On the Edge S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Open Project S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
	Otis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Poochy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Sculpted Cow T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Windy City S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Windy City from Ground S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

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Elevation:	660 ft	201 m
GPS:	45.00355, -81.22933 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	7,472 total · 58/month
Shared By:	Matt Looby on Jun 10, 2014
Admins:	Dave Rone Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: From the OAC website, climbing at Lion's Head is "Tolerated: Climbing access not formally permitted, but informally accepted. Tread lightly." Details

From the OAC website, climbing at Lion's Head is "Tolerated as a non-conforming use of the park. Highly sensitive area. Strive for minimal impact and low profile. All fixed protection to be camouflaged. Do not disturb the cottagers. Approach via Bruce Trail entrance.
Good mix of sport and trad, starting at higher grades mostly 5.10 and above. Some routes have anchors. Some routes start from ground, others from hanging belay. Approach is from top; rap in. Extremely complex the first visit."

Description

Mr. Bojangles Wall has some good hanging belay sport routes as well as a couple of nice traditional lines.

Getting There

Past (hiker's right) of the Lost at Sea area, walk to a clearing which is the top of Northern Delights. Another 60 feet to the east (hiker's right) is the top of Mr. Bojangles, marked by "Mr. B" painted at the top of the cliff. There is another trail that leads along the cliff that provides access to the rest of the routes.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mr. Bojangles Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 4 ● 30 years in the making Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 6 ● Windy City Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 13 ● Windy City from Ground Sport