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Headspace Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in Headspace Wall
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Death by Spanking S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fish in a Barrel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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For the Gallery S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Grey Matter S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Headspace S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jack in the Pulpit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lioness S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Long Weekend Ledge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mentor, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Project S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Pushin' Up Daddies S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Scooped T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Soul to Soul S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tooth Brush Was Not Enough S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Turbine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Zulie's Trad Line T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Elevation: | 662 ft | 202 m |
| GPS: |
45.00195, -81.23095 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 9,960 total · 70/month | |
| Shared By: | Matt Looby on Jun 10, 2014 | |
| Admins: | Dave Rone, Scott Graham |
Access Issue: From the OAC website, climbing at Lion's Head is "Tolerated: Climbing access not formally permitted, but informally accepted. Tread lightly."
Details
From the OAC website, climbing at Lion's Head is "Tolerated as a non-conforming use of the park. Highly sensitive area. Strive for minimal impact and low profile. All fixed protection to be camouflaged. Do not disturb the cottagers. Approach via Bruce Trail entrance.
Good mix of sport and trad, starting at higher grades mostly 5.10 and above. Some routes have anchors. Some routes start from ground, others from hanging belay. Approach is from top; rap in. Extremely complex the first visit."
Good mix of sport and trad, starting at higher grades mostly 5.10 and above. Some routes have anchors. Some routes start from ground, others from hanging belay. Approach is from top; rap in. Extremely complex the first visit."
Description
The Headspace Wall is the first wall that you encounter from the approach trail. It has a variety of routes including sport, trad, mixed, hanging belays, and projects.
Getting There
The Headspace Wall is the first wall that you encounter from the approach trail. When you reach the cliff edge from the approach trail, the Headspace Wall routes will be to your left (west) which is climber's right. The routes that have hanging belays should be rappelled in directly above each route. For the rest, either rappel somewhere to the base trail or take the 4th class Stinger gulley and walk west to the base of the wall.
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