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Routes in The Cat's Tail

Big F, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat's Tail, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Female Belay Slave S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Graduate, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Route 69 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Second Agreement T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stuck in the Middle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swan Song S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 82 ft
FA: Karl Seidenschmid
Page Views: 97 total · 10/month
Shared By: Neil Abe on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Dave Rone

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Access Issue: Top rope ban in effect@SEMICOLON@ DO NOT SLING THE CEDARS. Details

Description

One of Nemo's best climbs at the grade. This is the bolted line a couple of meters right of Cat's Tail. Climb the face right of the arĂȘte, and the face above, until you can get a closer look at the large roof. Take a deep breath. Exit the roof using the obvious crack. Fight the pump to the top.

Location

43.425825, -79.884084
In between 5.9 Cat's Tail and 5.10d Peanut Butter Brothers

Protection

12 Bolts + Anchors

Photos

Edek Falkowski
Buffalo, NY
Edek Falkowski   Buffalo, NY
Bring a long stick clip. My stick clip doesn't reach the first bolt and soloing up about 15' (even on easy jugs) to lean over to the adjacent wall to clip is not super fun. Otherwise this is a spectacular line. Easy fun climbing leads to the thin first mini-crux followed by steep juggy climbing to a roof crux and some awesome exposure. The climb doesn't end after the roof crux, though, as pumpy, thought-provoking climbing after that will spit you off if you aren't focused. One of my favorites at Nemo. Nov 28, 2017
Derrick W
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
Derrick W   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
I have to disagree with Edek's comment about the first bolt. While the bolt is rather high, the climbing up the corner to reach it is ridiculously easy. Excellent route! 4 days ago

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