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Routes in Calabogie Bouldering

Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Brent Goodman
Page Views: 79 total · 1/month
Shared By: wkh on Jan 22, 2014
Admins: Dave Rone

You & This Route


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Description

SDS with hands matched on the bottom ledge in the series of "steps". Move up the obvious line trending towards the right. Various beta exists but most includes using the left facing corner and making a stretch to the sloping lip. Once established on the lip throw a heel up and mantle over the top.

A similar line "Ambassador of Kick-Yer-Assiter" (FA Denny Wong) follows the stepped edges but eliminates the lip, instead moving through the left facing corner and topping out further right.

Each variation is worth a try, these problems had previously been considered the "benchmark" for v4 in the area, but more recently both have been re-evaluated as V3. Might feel somewhat stiff for a 3 to some, especially if you don't have the reach to simply stick the lip from the blocky steps.

Location

Located on the backside of the Nine-Tenths boulder, the boulder following The Gateway along the trail. Pretty prominent line on a great boulder.

Protection

pad and spotter, the landing is decent but try not to flail off the top.

Photos

Colin R
Ottawa, ON
  V3-4
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
  V3-4
I think the left hand variation is actually harder than the right. I would agree with the original guidebook that the left variation is V3/V4 (with the right beta) and the right perhaps V4. Jun 1, 2014

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