Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|FA:||Frank de Saussure and Betty Davis|
|Page Views:||267 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Marta Reece on Nov 24, 2013|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
Approach as for the south-face routes (see Davis Route) but as soon as you arrive at the southwest corner of the mountain, take to easy rock and climb up third class to a sloping ledge on the west face. Put on the rope and traverse left to a slightly difficult little dihedral, which leads up to the sloping ledge above.
The next pitch is the crux: smooth, slightly overhanging walls bar all progress up except for a steep section just left of a large unsound looking flake. Climb up this on adequate holds and muscle up a strenuous exit to the right to a bushy ledge. Then head up and leftish over mixed climbing, including a smooth ramp, whose holds reward a long reach, until the Davis Route is reached on the great shoulder on the SW ridge of the mountain. Continue as there.
Variation, Class 5.7
First ascent: Frank de Saussure and Dave Bailey
Go up Boyers Chute one pitch, then exit to the right on steep friction climbing onto the west face. Above this is a very laborious wriggle chimney, after which West Face Direct Route is joined.