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Routes in North Rabbit Ear

Awful Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boyer's Chute T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chute Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Davis Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hand Jive T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Little Question T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Miracle Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Parabola T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pea Pod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rotten Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
South Face Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
South Face Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Surprise Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1-2
West Face Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
West Face Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad
FA: Dick Ingraham and George Goedecke
Page Views: 51 total, 1/month
Shared By: Marta Reece on Nov 24, 2013
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

The description below, found in NMSU archives, was created by the legendary Southwest Mountaineers. It is at a minimum twenty years old, but likely dates as far back as 1970’s. The rock itself may have changed since that time. The rating system certainly has. For comparison, the Davis Route is listed in the same document as 5.3 and Boyer’s Chute as 5.2. So please treat what follows as a rough guide to an adventure, not as a solid and current info. If you do climb the route, sharing of what you learn would be appreciated.

An abortive east face route, which however can be done as a rock climbing exercise. Approach to the col between North and Middle Rabbit Ears, then drop down on the east side to the point somewhat short of the great gully system of the North Rabbit Ear east face where a feasible route seems to go up. Go up two pitches with some interesting small holds moves to the top of a prominent spur. Above this possibly very difficult maneuvers would lead further up the east face. Instead climb up and to the left a bit, then traverse left for a rope length on very steep rock with good holds on the southeast face. A couple good rappel points can be found, and two rappels land you back on terra firma.

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