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Routes in North Rabbit Ear
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Awful Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Boyer's Chute T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Chute Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Davis Route, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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DreamBoat Annie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Hand Jive T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Little Question T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Miracle Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Parabola T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Pea Pod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rotten Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sleight of Hand T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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South Face Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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South Face Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Surprise Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1-2 |
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West Face Corner T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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West Face Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 246 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Marta Reece on Nov 24, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas
Details
The Organ Mountains are in the Organ Mountains Desert Peaks National Monument which includes eight Wilderness Study Areas (WSAs). Placing new bolts, even if hand-drilled, is not allowed in WSAs. Please see section 1.6, D5, (g) at the BLM Manual 6330—Management of BLM Wilderness Study Areasblm.gov/sites/blm.gov/files… document for the policy regarding fixed anchors in WSAs. More about the Organ Mountain Desert Peaks National Monument, including maps showing the WSAs, can be found here.organmountains.org/wilderness/
The Access Fund has some helpful informationaccessfund.org/open-gate-bl… about public land agencies and the bolting rules of each agency.
The Access Fund has some helpful informationaccessfund.org/open-gate-bl… about public land agencies and the bolting rules of each agency.
Description
The description below, found in NMSU archives, was created by the legendary Southwest Mountaineers. It is at a minimum twenty years old, but likely dates as far back as 1970s. The rock itself may have changed since that time. The rating system certainly has. For comparison, the Davis Route is listed in the same document as 5.3 and Boyers Chute as 5.2. So please treat what follows as a rough guide to an adventure, not as a solid and current info. If you do climb the route, sharing of what you learn would be appreciated.
Go up to the Bivouac Ledge (see the Awful Buttress description for location) by any of a variety of ways. The route goes up the "obvious chimney" between the first pitches of the Awful Buttress and the Miracle Route. Toddle up the chimney for two pitches to a large ledge (which reaches leftward to the Awful Buttress). From here go straight up the "nasty" chimney or 10' left up an amusing variation. This reaches within 20' of the ridge of the Miracle Route. But no, go up the pea-pod-like crack and up and about a boulder to where you finally meet the confluence of the Awful Buttress and Miracle Routes. From here on you're on your own, buddy.
Go up to the Bivouac Ledge (see the Awful Buttress description for location) by any of a variety of ways. The route goes up the "obvious chimney" between the first pitches of the Awful Buttress and the Miracle Route. Toddle up the chimney for two pitches to a large ledge (which reaches leftward to the Awful Buttress). From here go straight up the "nasty" chimney or 10' left up an amusing variation. This reaches within 20' of the ridge of the Miracle Route. But no, go up the pea-pod-like crack and up and about a boulder to where you finally meet the confluence of the Awful Buttress and Miracle Routes. From here on you're on your own, buddy.
It went up several chimney pitches to a belay on a steep ridge of rock near the top. The Pea Pod (5.8) is a steep relatively short off width pitch to the left. The end of this pitch would place one a bit below the top of North Rabbit Ear. Nov 25, 2013