Mountain Project Logo

Routes in North Rabbit Ear

Awful Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boyer's Chute T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chute Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Davis Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hand Jive T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Little Question T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Miracle Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Parabola T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pea Pod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rotten Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
South Face Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
South Face Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Surprise Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1-2
West Face Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
West Face Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 213 total, 4/month
Shared By: Marta Reece on Nov 24, 2013
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

The description below, found in NMSU archives, was created by the legendary Southwest Mountaineers. It is at a minimum twenty years old, but likely dates as far back as 1970’s. The rock itself may have changed since that time. The rating system certainly has. For comparison, the Davis Route is listed in the same document as 5.3 and Boyer’s Chute as 5.2. So please treat what follows as a rough guide to an adventure, not as a solid and current info. If you do climb the route, sharing of what you learn would be appreciated.

Go up to the Bivouac Ledge (see the Awful Buttress description for location) by any of a variety of ways. The route goes up the "obvious chimney" between the first pitches of the Awful Buttress and the Miracle Route. Toddle up the chimney for two pitches to a large ledge (which reaches leftward to the Awful Buttress). From here go straight up the "nasty" chimney or 10' left up an amusing variation. This reaches within 20' of the ridge of the Miracle Route. But no, go up the pea-pod-like crack and up and about a boulder to where you finally meet the confluence of the Awful Buttress and Miracle Routes. From here on you're on your own, buddy.

Photos

Karl Kiser
  5.8
Karl Kiser  
  5.8
The Pea Pod route is a variation pitch to the chimney variation of Awful Buttress.
It went up several chimney pitches to a belay on a steep ridge of rock near the top. The Pea Pod (5.8) is a steep relatively short off width pitch to the left. The end of this pitch would place one a bit below the top of North Rabbit Ear. Nov 25, 2013