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Routes in North Rabbit Ear

Awful Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boyer's Chute T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chute Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Davis Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hand Jive T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Little Question T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Miracle Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Parabola T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pea Pod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rotten Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
South Face Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
South Face Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Surprise Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1-2
West Face Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
West Face Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad
FA: Dick Ingraham and Clem Ota
Page Views: 173 total, 4/month
Shared By: Marta Reece on Nov 24, 2013
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

The description below, found in NMSU archives, was created by the legendary Southwest Mountaineers. It is at a minimum twenty years old, but likely dates as far back as 1970’s. The rock itself may have changed since that time. The rating system certainly has. For comparison, the Davis Route is listed in the same document as 5.3 and Boyer’s Chute as 5.2. So please treat what follows as a rough guide to an adventure, not as a solid and current info. If you do climb the route, sharing of what you learn would be appreciated.

This is a pretty, short, sharp route. Go up Boyer's Chute to a dihedral-crack system on the left wall of the chute which seems to lie back a little toward the top. The first pitch goes up 40-50' to the top of a sloping ledge on the right part of the dihedral. (It's best to belay here because of rope drag on the next pitch.)

Next, cross the dihedral and take to a vertical bit on its left wall with just the necessary holds. About 30 feet up, go right into the dihedral and belay from a nice little standing ledge about 50' above the belayer.

On the last pitch, climb the right side of the dihedral, using good footholds on the left side at a crucial point. Climb left and join the Miracle Route about 50' above the belay. The climb finishes at the "spacious level area" above the Awful Buttress. Go up a pitch and return by a rappel down into Boyer's Chute as for Awful Buttress.

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Karl Kiser
  5.7
Karl Kiser  
  5.7
The Chute Route (5.7) is a steeper route to the left of Boyer's Chute. It follows the natural weakness for three pitches unless one desires to go to the summit of North Rabbit Ear. The normal rap, double ropes, is down the chute. This is another descent which has not seen much activity in recent years. Climbers should take slings and perhaps additional hardware to buck up anchors. Nov 25, 2013