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Routes in Jimmywood

38 Special S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arete Butler S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Mountain Picnic S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diamond Cutter S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Earflaps S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Puppets S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flim Flam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
La Pistola S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mammy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Miss Prissy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Miss Scarlet S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ruben S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saturated S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Saved By Zeroes T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snake Charmer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Story of My Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Supersaturated S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
That Orange Hat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wedgie S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wet Willie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
You can't email your way into heaven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mike Moore and Darryl Bornhop 2012
Page Views: 6,078 total, 124/month
Shared By: Kate Mittendorf on Nov 15, 2013
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


102 Opinions

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Description

This is a long and fun jug-haul that is really well protected. There are a LOT of bolts. It's possible many climbers of the grade won't have enough draws, but if you are a 5.8-5.9 climber this is not to be missed. Easy climbing to the little roof and then things get more interesting from there. If you are more experienced, you can easily downclimb a couple moves and grab your draws from below you when the bolt spacing is close together so as to have enough draws to protect the whole thing.

Location

This is a new 5.8 line toward the left end of the Jimmywood area, between Flim Flam and Finger Puppets. It's one of the tallest routes for the grade and is a fun gym-like jug haul. Starts on a slab below a tree on a ledge above the trail and goes up into a roof.

Protection

12 bolts, bolted anchors. Full rope length is needed. You can scramble up the little slab and belay from the ledge if you have chopped your rope at all.

Photos

zachj
 
zachj  
 
Fun, easy climbing. Way TOO many bolts. In fact, at some bolt locations you can simply reach back behind you and grab your last clip and re-clip it into the current bolt if you think you might be running low on draws. Long, easy warm up climb for the area. May 13, 2017
Punter Brewster
Chattanooga, TN
 
Punter Brewster   Chattanooga, TN
 
Mostly good, but not "great". Pulling the small roof and the rest of the line to the anchors make up for the less than stellar rock below. Mar 20, 2017
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.8
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.8
Very nice, almost as much fun as Ruben just to the left. I didn't run across any loose or suspect rock when I led it. Jun 8, 2014
Pjm
Pjm  
Great route! Very good lead for both trad
and sport. It climbs at. 5.6 with the only 5.8 move
at the roof. Nice and tall and fun for all. Apr 14, 2014
Chatt steel says "destined to become a popular moderate." This is true as it is one of few routes below 5.9 at Foster and has generally enjoyable climbing. That being said, the couple of detractors are the number of bolts/placements and the number of features that are loose or flexing and prime to be ripped off. Particularly when lowering down the route, I encountered several loose features that I was worried about dropping on those below. Wear a helmet, bring some 24" slings to clip the odd bolts so rope drag doesn't get heinous. Apr 6, 2014