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Routes in Jimmywood

38 Special S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arete Butler S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Mountain Picnic S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diamond Cutter S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Earflaps S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Puppets S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flim Flam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
La Pistola S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mammy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Miss Prissy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Miss Scarlet S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ruben S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saturated S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Saved By Zeroes T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snake Charmer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Story of My Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Supersaturated S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
That Orange Hat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wedgie S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wet Willie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
You can't email your way into heaven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Steve Jones, Cathy Crooks - 1993
Page Views: 591 total, 6/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Apr 19, 2010 with updates
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

A tough little short route, Wedgie can be eased off a bit by going slightly left of the bolt line (5.9 variation). The route can also be done on toprope by leading Wet Willie and making an easy traverse left to the Wedgie anchors.

From the ledge, fairly easy climbing will get you to the first bolt. A tricky sidepull sequence leads to thin climbing past two more bolts to the top.

This route has now been retrobolted by Darryl Bornhop with permission from Steve. From the chains, it has been extended to the top finished with a beautiful sequence of overhanging, traversy moves, a full 30 meters!

Location

Jimmywood area; starts just left of Wet Willie.

Protection

Three bolts, bolted anchors. The retro-bolt extension continues with more bolts above.

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